• Folks, if you've recently upgraded or renewed your annual club membership but it's still not active, please reach out to the BOD or a moderator. The PayPal system has a slight bug which it doesn't allow it to activate the account on it's own.

Return Pump

diana a

diana a

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
I am planning my future 90g tank. I am looking to purchase a new Jabeo pump. I have no clue what the return flow is suppose to be. I am looking at the DCP-13000...max flow 3645gph. Is this too much flow for a 90g? If it is too much flow, would one of these be a better fit...DCP-6500...max flow 1710 and DCP-8000...max flow 2100

Thanks!
 
etmanning1

etmanning1

NJRC Member
Zoas Grow Out Winner
I run a jebao 1200 series on my 90. I've got it dialed back to about 50% output and it runs my return, fuge, and reactor. Definitely more than I need so Id definitely say if you were getting the 1300 size to run it at like 30%

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
etmanning1

etmanning1

NJRC Member
Zoas Grow Out Winner
My bad, my pump is the 12000 so the 3100 GPH version. Been running strong 2+ years now!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Mark_C

Mark_C

Staff member
Officer Emeritus
NJRC Member
Moderator
Always curious on this myself.
I've always shot for approximately a 10x flow from the return pump, my 2 40b's are now running inexpensive pumps from Amazon that are pushing 350-400gph.
I thought that the longer the water was in the sump with the skimmer, reactors, heaters, and whatever else, the better.
Then I run the pricey wavemakers in tank to increase flow in the tank itself, creating as chaotic flow as possible. I've always had crystal clear waters and I'm always emptying skimmers full of gunk and changing filter floss.

This is a 40b with a 380gph return (less than 10% of flow).
There's a Tunze 6040 in there creating main tank flow
Water is crystal, corals happy, doing 10% every week or two, need to empty skimmer and change floss 2x per week
Guess I'm a proponent of slow flow through the sump (5-10%) and high flow through the tank.
Never spent more that $30-$50 on a return pump, but spent hundreds on the wavemakers.
I set the wavemakers for a flow of 500% above tank volume initially and mess about from there.
Know its not an answer to the question, but it may help provide some perspective.
IMG_8871.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mark Shelly

Mark Shelly

I was using an older JEBAO DC 4000 and now have a DCP 5000 (but am using the DC controller - See the Shelly Tank thread). Basically the number is in liters/hour so about 1060 and 1320 GPH. You lose some flow due to the height difference (and piping) so I feel I am getting about 650 GPH for the 4000 and may 850 GPH for the 5000 at steady flow (7 x to 9 x). Their DC pumps come with different controllers so mind the digit after DC (The DCP is a wave pump for example). Mine is a 90 Gallon tank. I have read flow should be 4x to 10X. 10 x seems to be good for me, although I considered a larger pump at a lower capacity and would have done so if I had the room. Additional water movement in the tank is done with other controllable pumps in the tank so that that it can be varied. I didn't have luck using a wave pump for a return. And if you do, the rated flow is only if the pump was going full speed which the controller will not let happen continuously.
 
DangerDave

DangerDave

NJRC Member
I like a bit more dwell time in the sump. I’m currently turning over 2.5 times my volume in the display, 2 times the volume in the frag tanks.

You can get as much flow as you need with power heads...
 
diana a

diana a

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Mark Shelly said:
..... I didn't have luck using a wave pump for a return. And if you do, the rated flow is only if the pump was going full speed which the controller will not let happen continuously.
Click to expand...

What was the problem you experienced with a wave pump for a return? I know nothing about pumps. Have no idea what a wave does. I just picked the Jebao DCP since it was the newer model.
 
amado

amado

Dal
Staff member
Board of Directors
NJRC Member
I have to say I really like the jebao pumps. I use to think that you needed to spend $$$ to get a good pump.
I purchased a used frag tank system tank/stand/sump the owner also gave me the jebao dc4000 return pump for free. so I said I will leave it and replace it when it dies. its still running with no problems . its dc so it doesn't make a sound and it cheaper to run than my mag 12 that I have been running on my 125. The mag12 has been running since my old fresh water days at least 4yrs ago. as soon as my Mag 12 pump dies I will replace it with the biggest Jebao I can buy.
 
Last edited:
Sponge

Sponge

I know very little about pumps. I chose an IWAKI MD-70RLT Mainly because I have a stupid amount of head pressure to deal with. Have to say after doing the math. It is performing better then expected. I was afraid the excessive back pressure would give me minimal flow but turns out it’s out performing my expectations and I had to dial in a little artificial head pressure with a ball valve. So to all who may be interested. I give IWAKI two thumbs up
 
DangerDave

DangerDave

NJRC Member
Mrx7899x said:
I like AC pumps all the DC pumps I've ever had seem to lose power as they get older.
Click to expand...

I agree - but want to note about losing power. They don't seem to start at their rated power either. I had an issue with a maxspect duo pump. It barely made 10% of the head pressure listed (including head loss). After some research it seems that many other people have experienced this as well. If you do go DC, buy way over what you need. It's DC, you can always dial it back...

I'm sticking with AC, way more bang for the buck.

Dave
 
Sponge

Sponge

I looked for a DC pump because I liked the idea of controllability but couldn’t find one even kind of reasonabley priced that could handle 30+ head pressure. I guess there not intended for sumps that aren’t stacked.
 
David

David

I have a Jebo a 4000 return pump. It is set on 3 out of 10, so there’s plenty of power in reserve. I have not noticed any degradation so far, but if it ever starts to fail I would buy a new one in a second. In fact, I’d probably downgrade to a 3000, which would be sufficient. I think when I get 2 years out of it, I’ll throw in a new one as a precaution, and keep the old one as a backup.
 
Sponge

Sponge

David said:
I have a Jebo a 4000 return pump. It is set on 3 out of 10, so there’s plenty of power in reserve. I have not noticed any degradation so far, but if it ever starts to fail I would buy a new one in a second. In fact, I’d probably downgrade to a 3000, which would be sufficient. I think when I get 2 years out of it, I’ll throw in a new one as a precaution, and keep the old one as a backup.
Click to expand...

Sounds smart to me
 
diana a

diana a

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
David said:
I have a Jebo a 4000 return pump. It is set on 3 out of 10, so there’s plenty of power in reserve. I have not noticed any degradation so far, but if it ever starts to fail I would buy a new one in a second. In fact, I’d probably downgrade to a 3000, which would be sufficient. I think when I get 2 years out of it, I’ll throw in a new one as a precaution, and keep the old one as a backup.
Click to expand...

What size tank and sump do you have? I am so confused on which pump to get.

Thank!
 
David

David

I have. 40, with a 20 l sump. Total system volume after rock, about 50. I wouldn’t agonize over it as long as your in the ballpark. The power heads will create the majority of the flow in the dt. Your turnover rate can vary greatly. With a slower turnover rate, the water has more exposure time with the skimmer, reactor, macro, or whatever you have in your sump. With a faster pump, the exposure time is less, but. The water gets moved through more often. As long as your not grossly under of overpowered, it will be fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top