RO/DI question

[horseplay]

I use the aquatic life ro buddy system. I have a question. If the water comes out is 0 TDS does it mean there is no chloramines? Or it is not detectable by the TDS meter.

 

[iTzJu]

wont be detected by TDS meter, would need a chloramines test.

 

[redfishbluefish]

@iTcJu has it.....both chlorine and/or chloramine are not detected by TDS. Just make sure you have a carbon block specific to chloramine.

 

[horseplay]

Make sense. I don't think the carbon filter in the ro buddy is specific for choloramine. any suggestion on a test kit? I do have the test strips.

 

[amado]

You would be better off calling the water company and asking if they have Cholorame in the water.
Or you can check the website for your water company

 

[Goodair]

^

 

[horseplay]

You would be better off calling the water company and asking if they have Cholorame in the water.
Or you can check the website for your water company

I checked the three water systems serving Elizabeth, NJ. 2 uses chloramines with max of 3.8 and 3.2 ppm. The other uses chlorine.

So it is likely that there is chloramines in my ro/di water.

 

[MadReefer]

Not to hi-jack the thread.
If my TDS on the Buddy is 0.1 do I just need to replace the resin?

 

[Hallowhead]

Can't you also get an ICP test

 

[horseplay]

Not to hi-jack the thread.
If my TDS on the Buddy is 0.1 do I just need to replace the resin?

My TDS meter (handheld) can only detect down to 1. That's when I change the resin. It kinds of corresponding to the color of the resin which becomes yellow. It's not like it's an emergency but definitely time to change.

 

[horseplay]

Can't you also get an ICP test

This is not practical for testing RODI water.

 

[horseplay]

Here's a link for this from Randy Holmes-Farley if anyone is still interested.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm

The summary:

​

1.​	Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2.​	The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3.​	Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4.​	Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5.​	One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.​

I will be buying the basic BRS 4 stage and buy appropriate filter catridge for it.

 

[Hallowhead]

This is not practical for testing RODI water.

I'm not sure how ? You'd send the ro water as the main sample ?

 

[erics210]

My DI resin only last 2-3 months based on my water and usage. I change the DI resin when color changes. Then when that one changes...I replace the Sediment and 2 carbon filters. So I but the 6 stage kit, even though ai only have the 5 stage, so I get the extra pouch of DI resin. So $42 every six months or so. And I replaced my membrane June 2020...will replace again about June 2023.
That's the plan.

 

[Hallowhead]

Here's a link for this from Randy Holmes-Farley if anyone is still interested.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm

The summary:

​

1.​	Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2.​	The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3.​	Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4.​	Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5.​	One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.​

I will be buying the basic BRS 4 stage and buy appropriate filter catridge for it.

I have started with ro buddie and have really just the membrane left at this point haha.

 

[MadReefer]

My TDS meter (handheld) can only detect down to 1. That's when I change the resin. It kinds of corresponding to the color of the resin which becomes yellow. It's not like it's an emergency but definitely time to change.

I made a typo so TDS is 1.
Thank you

 

[amado]

I made a typo so TDS is 1.
Thank you

At 1 I would change out my resin until I got zero