RO Drinking Water and DI Setup

[AJ1080]

I would like to setup RO/DI system with RO drinking water, and float valve for the RO/DI water.

Since the RO/DI unit I have is in pieces and am working on getting it back hooked up correctly I want to make sure I have everything hooked up correctly.


Here goes.
1. Water comes in from supply line.
2. Water passes through Sediment Filter
3. Water passes through Carbon 1
4. Water passes through Carbon 2
5. Water comes out of carbon two and into top input of auto shutoff valve.
6. water goes out of autoshutoff valve and into membrane
7. Water comes out of membrane and into bottom input of auto shutoff valve.
8. water comes out of bottom output of auto shutoff valve and into a T fitting
9. water gets to T. One way of T has a check valve and then the water goes to the pressurized tank for drinking.
10. The water flowing the other way in the T will go through a ball valve and to the DI Unit.
11. The water will come out of the DI and to a container where the float valve will be.

By putting the float valve at the end of the cable in step 11, will the float create enough back pressure to work? Also are there any other fail safes I could use to make sure this does not flood since the flooring is all new?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Fish Brain]

Don't get screwed

Where are the screws in the auto shut off? The way the diaphragm works, the back pressure must be on the correct side for it to work (it's basically a hydraulic piston). The side with the "screws" is the water coming out of the membrane. The other side with no screws is the supply water side.

One thing I would do is 86 the check valve between the "T" and the storage tank. Replace the check valve with a T for the sink faucet and then have it go into the storage unit. If you ever need quick RO/DI you have 3 gallons of RO water ready to go that just needs to run through the DI.

Liquids do not compress very well so back pressure is not a problem. I have my float in a 5 gallon bucket and the water runs thru the DI and 25Ft. of 1/4" tube and has enough back pressure for the Auto shutoff to stop the supply water.

Extra fail safe: put the water container you are filling IN the sink.

 

[AJ1080]

Hey Brian,

Thank you,

The supply water is running through the auto shutoff "without the screws" and the membrane water is running through the side "with the screws".

Instead of playing with the T's inline like that what about removing the T in step 8/9 and running the water directly into the storage container. On the output of the storage container put a 2 there with 1 hose going to the faucet and the other going to the DI. Also put a ball valve on the end of the DI output line. When I open the ball valve all of the water will run out of the tank and thorough the DI. I think this would give the same effect you were talking about?

My only worry about that would be the flow running through the DI, with the pressurized tank wouldnt the water move through the DI too fast?

Thank you for all the help again and thats a good idea for the second fail safe, sometimes I look past the easiest solutions lol.

 

[Fish Brain]

The way that my system is set up, I run it from the auto shutoff to the first T, a second T, and then onto the storage tank. The first T with the yellow hose goes to my DI. The second T goes to my Water Polisher and up to the faucet for drinking water. The "coconut carbon" polishing filter removes any taste and odor the water might pickup from the system or from being in the storage tank.


You can see my 25ft hose I use for filling my ATOs with FW. At the end of the hose I have a ball valve that lets me turn the water on/off remotely. You can't see it in the pic, it's under the unit, but it is at the end the clear hose and I have a 2ft yellow hose at the very end.

I have an inline TDS meter on the output of the DI and running at full output from the storage tank, the water still reads 0 TDS after the DI. If you want, you can slow the flow of water with the valve if you want more "dwell time" in the DI.

In the second pic you can also see the water polisher clipped to the RO housing. The black thing with the yellow hose going to it, on the upper left of the membrane housing, is a Permeate pump. I HIGHLY recommend you get one of these if you will be using a pressurized storage tank. It uses the incoming water pressure to turn an impeller that "force feeds" the pressurized tank. It uses no electricity and keeps the pressure on the one side of the membrane lower, thus increasing water production and reducing waste water. They should really sell these things with the storage tanks since it makes such a noticeable difference in water production. I produce 5 gallons of water about 60% faster with it. You can pick one up for about $45-55, and is totally worth every penny!!!

 

[AJ1080]

Brian,

Thank you so much. With all these hoses running everywhere you really helped clear it up for me. Now I just have to put my order together.

Does anyone know about the June group buy that is RO/DI and how that works? Should I wait to get all of my stuff during then?