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Rodi system question
- Thread starter ThatGuy
- Start date
I don't but I have no idea what they have at the well. Maybe I'll just suffer through until city water gets hooked up. Anything is better than nothing. The well I'm hooked to is bad(sent warnings out to not drink water or soak in water). First it was radon but now its something else. Forget what it was. I have to go through some papers to see what it was.
Might be a good idea to get a TDS meter. Also before you use the water, i'd check all the normal parameters (nitrites, nitrates, and so on) after you've mixed in the salt just to make sure everything's good. Also, how realistic is buying water from a LFS? Might be best option if your water is really that bad. Good luck!
Here's something I found:
http://www.co.gloucester.nj.us/depts/h/hedss/envhealth/sw.asp
I don't know that I'd be using that water for anything but black water use.
http://www.co.gloucester.nj.us/depts/h/hedss/envhealth/sw.asp
I don't know that I'd be using that water for anything but black water use.
I was going to order the meter when I got the rest of the stuff from Bulkreefsupply but opted not to (what a mistake). I'm going to get one here shortly(hopefully)
Thats why our community is hooking up to city water thats pumped in from another aquafer (and we are getting charged for having it pumped in ontop of the regular water bill).
For some reason it just dawned on me why my water is cloudy and why my DI part changed colors almost instantly. I had the waste water and good water tubes reversed.The fact that I've been using waste water on my tank doesn't bother me so much as the fact that I've been giving my 3yr old S*** water for over a month.WTF. Just so pissed right now. My wifes in tears over this because our well is so bad(alpha, radon, and sodium) that it clearly states in the yearly report not to drink unfiltered and I've been giving it to my baby. I can't even think straight right now. Why didn't it dawn on me sooner that my 75 gal a day system filled a 20 gal tub up in about a half hour. So mad/upset.
Maybe this will help:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QKJbO4UBJw&feature=fvwrel
There are a couple things that I do differently. I have my dual TDS meter connected to each side of the DI unit, so I can see the readings going into the DI and what is coming out of the DI. This lets me know that I'm getting '0' TDS and when I need to change my RO membrane. I also don't drink the "waste" water, I use mine in the washing maching.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QKJbO4UBJw&feature=fvwrel
There are a couple things that I do differently. I have my dual TDS meter connected to each side of the DI unit, so I can see the readings going into the DI and what is coming out of the DI. This lets me know that I'm getting '0' TDS and when I need to change my RO membrane. I also don't drink the "waste" water, I use mine in the washing maching.
Hello,
I am no expert on ro systems other than having set mine up but i have carbon blocks that i will no longer need i can give them to you NOW. If you have chloramine that is a different story and i can't help you there. i have taken my unit apart completely quite a few times, tubing and all so if you need a hand PM ME.
Christine
I am no expert on ro systems other than having set mine up but i have carbon blocks that i will no longer need i can give them to you NOW. If you have chloramine that is a different story and i can't help you there. i have taken my unit apart completely quite a few times, tubing and all so if you need a hand PM ME.
Christine
My real problem is the one I got mine for free from another member and all the lines were not hooked up so I'm kind of guessing at the whole plumbing aspect of it. Right now it looks as though all the water is waste water. I get about 3 drops a minute from the RO unit to a couple of gallons of waste water. Everything I can find is a how to with aspect to adding a DI unit to the system or hooking up accesories. Just really need to know where the line needs to go in the RO unit and where good water comes out.
In about 2 minutes
Good water
Waste water (alittle over a quart)
In about 2 minutes
Good water
Waste water (alittle over a quart)
Last edited:
It sounds like you are just bypassing the membrane and do not have the back pressure to force the water through the membrane. Do you have a flow restrictor on the line for the waste water? It looks like a check valve but it will have a 600 or 800 number depending on your membrane.
The one I have says 800.
fatoldsun
NJRC Member
I feel your pain Josh, I also got mine second hand and I know with mine it was not intuitive. I expected it to go 1-2-3-4 in some order but it seemed it went right for 1- then 2 – then up to the membrane(which I called 4) and back to 3. The units all start as pretty much the same thing – a few clear or white canisters on a bracket with (or without) an additional canister mounted horizontally on top of the bracket. From there they vary quite a bit. I had a whole write up on mine but it was lost when the board crashed last summer. Anyway, what I did, if you look at the videos on BRS and look for the how to “add a membrane flush” kit that sort of explains (by accident) the route stuff should take – what Paul (redfishbluefish) said above is correct as I understand it – the path should travel from the sediment block(s) to the carbon blocks(s) [the number can vary if you have a 4 or 5-stage] leaving the carbon the water should go to the RO membrane (on my unit, this is the white PVC bullet style canister mounted horizontally on top of the bracket). Now here’s where my memory gets a little foggy. I think the bad water leaves the membrane as waste at that point, the good water travels (again on mine) back down to the third clear canister and goes through the DI resin pellets. The water that leaves that stage is “clean” (and here some people for drinking water would add a final carbon block, mentioned before for polishing) I hope this helps – and sorry about the situation with your daughter. Hopefully, all that happened was the water she had bypassed the membrane (with somewhat high TDS for algae growth) but still went through the sediment and carbon and got most of the unhealthy for consumption stuff out. The water before it gets to the membrane and resin is already considerably cleaner than what left your well.
Side note: Be prepared to run through the sediment blocks kind of quickly though. They’re cheap, if it was me, and I was placing another order for a TDS dual meter I’d get a few extra carbon and sediment. Also, with the well (I’m no expert here) I might use the extra spot you have for a second sediment filter to try and get 80-90% of the dissolved solids out before it even contacts the carbon.
Good luck
Side note: Be prepared to run through the sediment blocks kind of quickly though. They’re cheap, if it was me, and I was placing another order for a TDS dual meter I’d get a few extra carbon and sediment. Also, with the well (I’m no expert here) I might use the extra spot you have for a second sediment filter to try and get 80-90% of the dissolved solids out before it even contacts the carbon.
Good luck
The membrane housing has a screw on cap on one end. That is your RO input and that line comes from your sediment and carbon block filters. On the other end there are two outputs. The one in the center of the housing is the product water. The other one (offset from center) is the waste water output and should have the flow restrictor. You should have a very slow but steady output from the RO membrane.
About a month
I got the water going through the sedement and carbon right as it still has the labels. Its just he RO part has three connections and I don't know what is what.