Routing RO Waste Water Line Outside

[ATLL765]

Since I'm getting a new tank, I was standing in my basement, dreading having to clean it, so instead of doing that, I pondered how I could make it easier to run my RO/DI system. My waste water reservoir is not large enough to hold all the water that is created by the time it fills the RO reservior and the float valve shuts everything off and it is kind of annoying to have a garden hose running across the floor and out the Bilco doors. Bad enough there's no water down there, so I have to run a hose in those doors to run the RO/Di as well.

So I was thinking, why can't I just run the waste line outside? Anybody do this? Is there anything I should keep in mind when I do this? I was thinking the only real issue is that of back pressure and freezing during winter that would clog the line. I figure it's probably not an issue if the line has to go uphill a couple inches to get over the foundation, so long as it doesn't have to go too far up and all the line that is outside runs downhill to prevent clogging/freezing.

Should I just drill a hole big enough to fit and seal a push fitting into the exterior wall. That way, if need be, I could detach the line outside for cleaning or replacement? That way I don't have a line that's sealed in place.

Anything I'm missing?

One last note: If I ever get around to cleaning the basement, do I need to worry about contaminating my RO or SW reservoirs? Or am I just being paranoid?

 

[TanksNStuff]

This is certainly possible, and depending on your basement situation it could be very simple. If you could take a few pics of the area of your RO system and where you plan to have it exit the wall... that would help us make better suggestions.

In the meantime, here are a few things I would suggest:

1. Do NOT have a low spot or dip in the drain line. If there is any point that dips and then raises (even with a continuous slope from the raised point on) you will get water settling in the drain line. This can cause a potential problem with freezing and clogging. Also, there may be a small amount of back pressure with a dip too. Ideally, you want a continual downward slope from the RO system to the discharge spot in the wall.

2. Most people will just run a pvc pipe as a conduit for your RO waste line tubing. That way you can pull the RO tubing back thru the pipe when not in use or if you need to relocate it, clean it, etc. In all reality, your waste line doesn't even have to go that far into the pvc... a foot or two to prevent it from falling out onto your basement floor is sufficient. The pvc pipe/conduit will act as the drain line.

3. Depending on what size pvc pipe you use, you may want to put a screen (plastic) on the outside end to prevent any rodents from crawling up in there. Even very small pipe sizes will give ants and insects a way in, so I highly suggest a screen. Also, sealing around the pipe is just as important.

4. Depending on how high the discharge pipe is outside the wall, you may want to consider a stone bed or gutter splash block to prevent any erosion issues. It will likely be a slow flow, but if there is a decent drop distance it might need some protection.

Hope that helps.

 

[ATLL765]

This is where my RO system is now.

Here's where I'd like it to exit the basement. Also where I'd put the RO/DI if I were to do this, closer to the window though. Couldn't get over there without moving some old furniture and I'm too lazy for that right now.

Here is the other side of the wall in the last pic.

As you can see, the exposed part of the exterior wall is about 6" tall, most of which is taken up by the beams running under the floor. Because of this, I would assume my only option is to try to hang the RO/DI system onto one of those beams? Otherwise I'd think it's impossible to have the waste line run downhill to it's exit point.

 

[Fish Brain]

Do you have a washing machine in the basement?


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[ATLL765]

Do you have a washing machine in the basement?


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Nope. Nothing down there that can use it. Plus, washing machine is a front loader.

I was thinking if plan A fails, plan B is a couple float switches to turn the pump on and off. Or maybe just a hose timer. I really don't want to have to remember that it's running. Since I work from home, it's pretty easy to get distracted and then a couple hours later think, "CRAP! I forgot it's on". You can tell it happens by the towels next to the waste water container in the first pic, lol.

 

[Fish Brain]

The reason I asked about the washing machine is because, a washing machine has all you need for a RO unit, A) a source of water and B) a drain for the waste water.

Are you looking to capture some or all of the waste water?


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[ATLL765]

The reason I asked about the washing machine is because, a washing machine has all you need for a RO unit, A) a source of water and B) a drain for the waste water.

Are you looking to capture some or all of the waste water?


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I just want to not have to pump the waste water out of a Brute container in my basement. It's the can on the right in the first pic. Because as of now, that can fills faster than the blue tote on the left, so if I run the RO/DI, the waste container overflows before the RO container hits full capacity. At the moment, it gets pumped to the yard via a pool cover pump hooked to a hose, but I have to go turn it on once the RO container gets about half full.

I'd much rather not have to remember it's on. I figure simplest solution was to just buy a hose timer, but routing the waste line outside means I can use the larger brute for mixing SW and it also means I don't need two hoses running across the floor, just one.

 

[horseplay]

Can you put the Ro unit upstairs and run the product water line to the basement and waste to the drain upstairs?

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[ATLL765]

I could, but then I gotta drill more holes and find a place for the RO unit to go. Kitchen isn't gonna work, as there's not really any space underneath the sink and the faucet doesn't have threads that would allow the hose connecter to screw in and the mud room doesn't work since the sink there leaks.

 

[Hockeynut]

Just mount it high on the wall so that you can drill a small hole either through the block or the rim joist and like George said maybe use a piece of PVC like 3/8 or 1/2 inch to go through and slide the waste into that when you use it and in the winter you can pull it out so it won't freeze. Good luck

 

[Jcurry@wesketch]

Mount the RO on a small piece of plywood and 2x4s hung from the floor joists in the unfinished part of the basement (pic 2). Then tape into the existing hose bib line and add a new valve to feed the RO unit (before the blue gate valve in Pic 2). Then run the discharge as others have suggested.

 

[Cdiggy]

You can also get a big Cichlid tank and use the RO wast water to do water changes on the Cichlid tank when you make ro water for your reef. The wife will love you for it! Lol

 

[ATLL765]

Mount the RO on a small piece of plywood and 2x4s hung from the floor joists in the unfinished part of the basement (pic 2). Then tape into the existing hose bib line and add a new valve to feed the RO unit (before the blue gate valve in Pic 2). Then run the discharge as others have suggested.

When I mount it though, it's gonna have to stay high up on the joist though, as I only have maybe a couple inches to work with before the waste line has to move uphill. Can I just nail it to the beam though?

And I was thinking that about tapping into the plumbing running to the outlet just outside. I have no idea how to do that though.

You can also get a big Cichlid tank and use the RO wast water to do water changes on the Cichlid tank when you make ro water for your reef. The wife will love you for it! Lol

I'm 23, unmarried and childless(thankfully), but I do live with my Mother, as she was diagnosed with stage 4 lung cancer a year ago and someone's gotta unchain and feed my siblings every few days, lol. So I do have to take her needs/wants into consideration, but that basement has been pretty much been surrendered to me.

 

[Mark...]

You can use a saddle valve connected to a water pipe in your basement as your source water.

 

[hjp109]

If you have a sump in the basement then you can run it to their and you don't have to do further drilling.

 

[ATLL765]

You can use a saddle valve connected to a water pipe in your basement as your source water.

That provides enough pressure? If I were to do this, anything I need to know? It seems too simple...just turn off water, clamp/pierce/seal, turn water back on and that's it?

 

[Mark...]

That provides enough pressure? If I were to do this, anything I need to know? It seems too simple...just turn off water, clamp/pierce/seal, turn water back on and that's it?

Actually if you do it right, you don't even need to turn the water off.

That's it, some RO/DI systems even come with saddle valves. Your pressure should be the same as you normal pressure.

BRS has a video on it.

 

[Hockeynut]

Sorry mark I do not agree saddle valves are prone to leaks and provide limited water pressure. Go to Home Depot and buy a shark bite and cut it in with a hose bib no soldering easy, safe and full water pressure.

 

[horseplay]

Prone to leak yes. But water pressure is the same regardless how thin the line is. I use the splitter connecting to the water supply line under the sink.

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[Mark...]

Sorry mark I do not agree saddle valves are prone to leaks and provide limited water pressure. Go to Home Depot and buy a shark bite and cut it in with a hose bib no soldering easy, safe and full water pressure.

I've used saddle valves for humidifiers and refrigerator ice machines with never a problem.