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Skimmer Help

Shawn2122

NJRC Member
So I have had my octopus skimmer running for almost a month now to break it in. The gate valve is fully open, the air intakes are mostly blocked and the water level is just above the bubble plate.
It's still bubbling over like crazy.

Any ideas?
 
D

Deleted member 27248

Guest
Take a picture...it doesn’t take a month for a skimmer to “break in”.just need a day or two for bacteria to make a film inside it...how old is your tank? Is the skimmer at the correct height?
 

Shawn2122

NJRC Member
The tank has been running for 8 weeks now. Light bioload.

If I close the gate valve it traps more water inside and just goes up higher[I thought to start it should be fully open to start].

If I lift the skimmer up an inch or two, the bubble plate will be above the waterline but will try it.

I guess I will keep playing with it and try different things-it just seems like it's bubbling way too much.

I will try and take a picture later.

Thanks.
 

MadReefer

Vice President
Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Doesn't sound right when you stated the "bubble plate would be above the waterline" by raising it an inch or two. How much water is in your sump?
 

Shawn2122

NJRC Member
I have exactly nine inches in my sump and the gate valve[approxiamtely 8 inches from bottom] sits right below the waterline as of now. The bubble plate inside the skimmer[say like 6-7 inches inside the skimmer] is like an inch or two below the waterline when the skimmer is off.

So I can raise the skimmer a few inches and close the valve slightly to ensure water is over the plate I guess?
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
You don't mention what model you have, but regardless, I am bothered by this comment, "air intakes are mostly blocked," not knowing exactly what you mean. Any skimmer I've ever had, whether a becketted skimmer or cone skimmer, I've always set the air intake wide open, and adjusted the water level in the skimmer with the gate valve. I could never figure out why they made air intake adjustable when it's always set wide open.
 

Shawn2122

NJRC Member
I tried to partially block the air intakes to try and reduce the number of bubbles coming in during the "break-in" period, but normally they are wide open.
 

Shawn2122

NJRC Member
I have a Reef Octopus 300SSS but the older model[pics below]. It says the optimal water level is between 8-10[I had it at 9 as seen by the gunk in the picture]. The gate was fully open and it has 2 air intakes. I pulled it offline last night due to frustration. No matter what I change it just seems to come racing up the neck with tons of bubbles every time and overflows continuously.

Bioload is light right now. But I thought it would be the opposite, with little to no rise as it builds up. I did use some epoxy 2 months ago to hold some rocks together but can't think of anything else that would make it continuously overflow.
So confused?
 

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redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I would look at two things:

1. Unlikely, but worth a look: Is the gate valve actually opening and closing? Do you see the internal valve parts go up and down as you turn the handle? Also take it apart to assure nothing (like a snail) is stuck inside.

2. Most likely: The venturi is blocked by salt deposits and needs to be cleaned. Remove the venturi and closely inspect where the air is "injected" into the water. I've actually chipped off salt deposits here. A good soak in an acid (vinegar or citric acid) will assure all deposits are removed.
 

Shawn2122

NJRC Member
1. Definitely not gate vale as internal parts move up/down with the turn of gate valve
2. Will try and clean out venturi-it just seems like bubbles aren't issue but flow into the canister is overpowering.

Thanks.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I've got one more.....is it the original pump? I think a RO 5500 or 5500s maybe??? Or has it been changed to something else....or possibly the newer DC VarioS-6?
 

Salted

NJRC Member
light bioload? maybe there's nothing to pull?
This is my issue with my Red Sea rsk300 on my 75/20l sump setup. Nothing but weak tea colored water. I was actually thinking of going back to my Reef Octo hob 1000. Blasphemy I know but it produced nice thick dark skim mate for me in this tank. It's to tall for my sump and I'd have to extend the pickup and return tubes or I'd give it a try. I now have the rsk300 on a timer only running 6 hours a day. Had to put my ato on an opposite schedule to account for water volume in sump skimmer running vs not running and all worked out now. Still just getting the tea colored water like this but at least now I have a nice thick dark sludge coat on the cup neck and the Red Sea neck wiper panel thing.
 

MadReefer

Vice President
Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Paul, nothing wrong with the RO HOB 1000; I had the BH2000 and it worked great.
 

diana a

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
I have a Reef Octo 150 Internal. It is way too big for my system but it still pulls dark poo color. This is 5 days old with 4 fish. Love this skimmer so much that I won't part with it
 

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i have a couple of skimmers for sale if you decide to downsize. both have basically brand new impellers and pull very well. have used them on tanks as small as 75 and up.


 
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