I may have figured this out. About 18 months ago I had switched carbon from brs to kent. I then started to notice die off so I quickly switched back to brs. Well about 3 months ago I started using seachem carbon. Now that I think about it. That's when the problems started. Has anyone ever had this happen. Do you use carbon regularly. I change it along with phos remover every two weeks when I do my water changes. I have removed the carbon from the reactor. Let's see if that makes a difference. I also can verify that phosphates are 0. I may remove the phosphate remover from the reactor as well. Thoughts?
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Some Corals are dying off. Others are growing.
- Thread starter joeb558
- Start date
Carbon could certainly be the issue. I've heard several people claiming that switching carbon had killed off their corals, including Mike (motortrendz) from Mainland Aquatics and I believe Matt (mfisher2112) from Reefs Plus. They were both talking about it at a meeting last year.
I use Rox Premium from BRS. It's a bit more expensive than most, but not that bad when you buy it in bulk and it's a quality product.
I use Rox Premium from BRS. It's a bit more expensive than most, but not that bad when you buy it in bulk and it's a quality product.
I really think that's the problem. I feel like an idiot that I forgot all about my past experience. I reviewed my old notes and it was the same situation. I was sidetracked but the fact that my kh was so low and focuses on that as the most likely cause. So pissed I just ordered another 2L of that carbon.
I've been using Seachem carbon for a long time without any problems. But I didn't switch to it, we've always used it on this system.
I've heard anecdotes of bad reactions the days after changing to a new carbon. The speculation is that it changes the water so quickly that the corals react. But I've never heard of it causing a problem that is continual over a long stretch of time, eg. months. I don't see why it would, you think they'd adjust. But who knows. It wouldn't hurt to switch back to your old carbon or remove carbon all together until you can.
I've heard anecdotes of bad reactions the days after changing to a new carbon. The speculation is that it changes the water so quickly that the corals react. But I've never heard of it causing a problem that is continual over a long stretch of time, eg. months. I don't see why it would, you think they'd adjust. But who knows. It wouldn't hurt to switch back to your old carbon or remove carbon all together until you can.
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I have removed the carbon completely. Wondering if I should remove the Phosguard as well.
Excellent read. Thank you. I am using Seachem Phosgaurd. I do not see any information relating to the product preventing drops below .04. Do you know if this product complies? Can you recommend one that does?
Keep the phosguard. Pulling the kent carbon was smart, there was a recall at some point I believe on it as this problem has popped up for a lot of people. You do not want to make too many changes too soon, or that could hurt the corals as well. I use the BRS rox carbon which seems to be a very popular choice out there.
I lost a few lps about a year. I was running biopellets and gfo. I pulled the gfo about 7 months ago and never looked back. My lps are way more happy. My sps have coloured up. I think sometimes we strip to much out of the water.
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Some people do, some people don't. There was another thread a while ago where we discussed how different things work for different people. I'm not going to rehash all of that, but my point was that everyone's tank is different. Tanks differ in: size (water volume), bioload, livestock, live rock (quantity and type), refugium contents, reactors/filter media, feeding regimens, WC schedule, additives, etc. All of those differences will create different degrees of pollutants and beneficial minerals that our tanks need to be "ideal". The problem is, there is no right answer on what is ideal for everyone because each tank has different requirements due to the differences listed above (and likely others I missed too.)
So, to sum that up... some people may need to strip things from the water to help the tank be optimum while others may need to add things. It all depends on your tanks makeup.
I finally received the Red Sea Foundation test kit. Here are the results.
Tanks Salinity is 35ppt
Ph= 8.1
POS=0
MG= 1700 Suggested target 1390. Is this a dangerous level. Whats the best way to bring it down.
KH/ALK= 2.3/6.4 Suggested target 4.5/12.6 I am using TLF A&B , Can anyone advise which is for alk? I would like to raise it slowly. Any recommendations?
CA= 465 Suggested target 465
So my Mag is high and my Alk is pretty low. The tank does look a little better. I switched over to BRS carbon. I did a water change two days ago and dose the A&B 15ml each twice a week. I also dosed 1 tsp of magnesium crystals about one week ago but have not dosed any mag prior to that. Probably should not have done that without testing first. I should mention the tank is a 54 gal corner. Thank you all for your help.
Tanks Salinity is 35ppt
Ph= 8.1
POS=0
MG= 1700 Suggested target 1390. Is this a dangerous level. Whats the best way to bring it down.
KH/ALK= 2.3/6.4 Suggested target 4.5/12.6 I am using TLF A&B , Can anyone advise which is for alk? I would like to raise it slowly. Any recommendations?
CA= 465 Suggested target 465
So my Mag is high and my Alk is pretty low. The tank does look a little better. I switched over to BRS carbon. I did a water change two days ago and dose the A&B 15ml each twice a week. I also dosed 1 tsp of magnesium crystals about one week ago but have not dosed any mag prior to that. Probably should not have done that without testing first. I should mention the tank is a 54 gal corner. Thank you all for your help.
You might want to double check the process for the Mg test, it can be a little confusing with having to mix each drop of reagent A for 15 seconds between each of the 5 drops, and keep track to make sure you add all 5 drops. Here is a demo. Although it's a little high, and you don't need to keep it there, the Mg(if correct)shouldn't be a problem. The bottle should indicate which one is for Ca and Alk, I believe that B is the alk component. I would use this calculator, fill in the blanks for your system, and select your supplement from the drop down menu to get the appropriate dosage.
I keep my system close to NSW. I don't like higher levels of Ca and alk, since I'm not interested in accelerated growth, and want to avoid as much abiotic precipitation as possible. I'm also using bio-pellets. Here's a good read:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
I keep my system close to NSW. I don't like higher levels of Ca and alk, since I'm not interested in accelerated growth, and want to avoid as much abiotic precipitation as possible. I'm also using bio-pellets. Here's a good read:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php
As you state, the MAG is high, but fortunately that high a level isn’t that damaging. Bring it down by water changes….assuming that high level didn’t come from the salt brand you are using.
Your ALK is a bit low. Dependant on who you talk to, you want to target 7 – 11 dKH. Take note of the units you are using to measure….Alkalinity may be reported using three different sets of “units” HERE is an online conversion calculator that will bring you between the three.
Your CALC is actually a little on the high side….again, as with MAG, this high level isn’t overly damaging….with the exception it drives down ALK. I’d suggest you let this level fall back down to something in the area of 400 ppt.
One last point…..of the three Amigo’s above, ALK is the one that can do damage. You don’t want it too high, or it will “burn” your corals, AND you don’t want to raise it too fast. When raising ALK, it is recommended that you only do no more than 1 dKH per day.
Hope this helps.
Your ALK is a bit low. Dependant on who you talk to, you want to target 7 – 11 dKH. Take note of the units you are using to measure….Alkalinity may be reported using three different sets of “units” HERE is an online conversion calculator that will bring you between the three.
Your CALC is actually a little on the high side….again, as with MAG, this high level isn’t overly damaging….with the exception it drives down ALK. I’d suggest you let this level fall back down to something in the area of 400 ppt.
One last point…..of the three Amigo’s above, ALK is the one that can do damage. You don’t want it too high, or it will “burn” your corals, AND you don’t want to raise it too fast. When raising ALK, it is recommended that you only do no more than 1 dKH per day.
Hope this helps.
Good call. I did initially do the mag test wrong. I redid but the results weren't much different. 1600 this time. Thank you for the response.
I agree there with Calcium is high and it's holding Alk down. Shoot for 380-400. If you do some water changes and the new salt mix is lower in Calcium than the 465 it'll bring the Ca lower, and bring the Mg lower. I know regular Instant Ocean is on the lower end of Calcium - depends which mix you use.
I'm using reef crystals. In the process though of transitioning back from aqua vitro. Wasn't happy with all of the residual left in the mixing pale.
Thanks Paul. Do you recommend that I use baking powder or an aquarium specific product? If backing soda can you advise what dosage I would use to stay in the 1 dKH per day range. Thanks for all of your help.
Paul B
NJRC Member
I hope you found your problem but I don't think so and I feel you are looking to deep into this.
If some of your corals are thriving I would discount carbon and just about all the other parameters. If you keep a tank long enough you will see these cycles. As I look back at pictures of my tank sometimes it was crowded with leathers, they they would die off and LPS would grow like crazy, then a few years ago I couldn't keep the SPS from growing to the front glass. Corals in the sea and in our tanks exude poisons that prevent different types of corals from growing near them. In a tank these acumulate in small amounts making it hard for certain corals to live. Just my opinion of course. Dance
If some of your corals are thriving I would discount carbon and just about all the other parameters. If you keep a tank long enough you will see these cycles. As I look back at pictures of my tank sometimes it was crowded with leathers, they they would die off and LPS would grow like crazy, then a few years ago I couldn't keep the SPS from growing to the front glass. Corals in the sea and in our tanks exude poisons that prevent different types of corals from growing near them. In a tank these acumulate in small amounts making it hard for certain corals to live. Just my opinion of course. Dance
I tend to agree. I might be obsessing a bit too much over this. I have been doing weekly water changes and completely switched back to reef crystals. My all of my tests are now within what I think to be acceptable ranges. Thank you all for your help. Here is a pic of my tank just before the issues began.
