Something strange is going on....

[DangerDave]

I’ve been dealing with a phosphate issue for some time now. Earlier in the year I ordered the ulr kit for when I get it nice and low (i can dream right). A couple months ago I ran out of reagent on the regular kit and decided to start using the ulr (I’ve been able to hold it between .01 and .03) instead of ordering new reagent.

I had nice bump in phosphates since then due to an “incident” with my algae scrubber. Too busy at work to dive into it, I went back to using copious amounts of gfo (rowaphos) to handle it. I got it down to my normal levels, but still needed more gfo then I expected to do so. I mean like $50-75 a months worth).

I’m really glad some you guys read the manuals, and my wallet thanks you. I had no idea about the conversion chart. Turns out I’ve been around .003 - .006 this whole time. Lol I can prolly use less ab+ too when once I get it back up to .01.

I should to change my screen name from dangerdave to dummydave lol!

 

[Foxchase]

I don’t know if this makes a difference. But, I usually make 20 gallon batches of salt water In a brute trash can. I use a mag 9 pump and let it mix for roughly 24 hours. I use ten gallons for a water change that day and the other ten gallons is stored for one week in clear 5 gallon plastic jugs.

I second what @iTzJu is saying. It doesn't make sense for a fresh batch to be showing .29.
are you sure you're running the test right?
-Add C1 (sample water to be tested)
-Press button
-Once C2 shows up, add reagent.
-Shake for 2 mins.
-Make sure vial is clean (I use microfiber towels to make sure I get fingerprints and any water is off)
-hold button until timer starts

If so, then I'm at a loss

 

[Foxchase]

I’ve been dealing with a phosphate issue for some time now. Earlier in the year I ordered the ulr kit for when I get it nice and low (i can dream right). A couple months ago I ran out of reagent on the regular kit and decided to start using the ulr (I’ve been able to hold it between .01 and .03) instead of ordering new reagent.

I had nice bump in phosphates since then due to an “incident” with my algae scrubber. Too busy at work to dive into it, I went back to using copious amounts of gfo (rowaphos) to handle it. I got it down to my normal levels, but still needed more gfo then I expected to do so. I mean like $50-75 a months worth).

I’m really glad some you guys read the manuals, and my wallet thanks you. I had no idea about the conversion chart. Turns out I’ve been around .003 - .006 this whole time. Lol I can prolly use less ab+ too when once I get it back up to .01.

I should to change my screen name from dangerdave to daummydave lol!

Only because I'm an*l and I don't want you to make a mistake, i want to make sure And to reiterate that the conversion is ONLY for the phosphorus checker (which shows result in ppb and the conversion is to turn it into phosphate ppM) does not apply the phosphate ULR.

 

[DangerDave]

Only because I'm an*l and I don't want you to make a mistake, i want to make sure And to reiterate that the conversion is ONLY for the phosphorus checker (which shows result in ppb and the conversion is to turn it into phosphate ppM) does not apply the phosphate ULR.

Ok so I went and looked. It’s the Phosphate ulr. for a few minutes I thought I was gonna get to buy less gfo, lmao. Well once the scrubber screen is back to 100% I’ll get to back off then.

 

[DangerDave]

Btw I agree. There is no way new salt should be reading that phosphate with your water.

 

[Jon]

I second what @iTzJu is saying. It doesn't make sense for a fresh batch to be showing .29.
are you sure you're running the test right?
-Add C1 (sample water to be tested)
-Press button
-Once C2 shows up, add reagent.
-Shake for 2 mins.
-Make sure vial is clean (I use microfiber towels to make sure I get fingerprints and any water is off)
-hold button until timer starts

If so, then I'm at a loss

I’m sure I’m doing the test correctly. Thank god for you tube!!! I did the first one incorrectly, the. I did about two or three more and those were accurate. I just don’t understand it....

 

[DangerDave]

You can isolate the issue. Mix a small batch of salt from another fresh water RO source (another Reefer or lfs). Also mix a small batch of water from a new container of salt using your current water.

 

[Jon]

You can isolate the issue. Mix a small batch of salt from another fresh water RO source (another Reefer or lfs). Also mix a small batch of water from a new container of salt using your current water.

Good idea Dave. I just might try that one.
Thanks

 

[Jon]

Positive update:

I did a 20 gallon water change today. Before I did my water change my phosphates were .42 this morning. Last week after I did a water change they were .62. So that means they dropped 20 points in five days. That seems like a lot to me and I think it’s because I fed my tank reefroids after I did my water change and I tested my tank the next morning after the feeding. As the week went on I think the waste filtered itself out. My chaeto growth is doing well and that probably helped with this process. Than I tested my phosphates after doing today’s water change and they are now reading .34. Again more progress headed in the right direction. I plan to do another 20 gallon water change sometime early next week as well. Fingers crossed!!!

 

[Foxchase]

Positive update:

I did a 20 gallon water change today. Before I did my water change my phosphates were .42 this morning. Last week after I did a water change they were .62. So that means they dropped 20 points in five days. That seems like a lot to me and I think it’s because I fed my tank reefroids after I did my water change and I tested my tank the next morning after the feeding. As the week went on I think the waste filtered itself out. My chaeto growth is doing well and that probably helped with this process. Than I tested my phosphates after doing today’s water change and they are now reading .34. Again more progress headed in the right direction. I plan to do another 20 gallon water change sometime early next week as well. Fingers crossed!!!

I would stop feeding reefroids. They'll spike your phosphates and that's what you're trying to avoid. Testing right after feeding the tank will result in the nutritients showing higher than what they'll be after going through your filtration. Increase photo period for the chaeto. Should help

 

[Jon]

I would stop feeding reefroids. They'll spike your phosphates and that's what you're trying to avoid. Testing right after feeding the tank will result in the nutritients showing higher than what they'll be after going through your filtration. Increase photo period for the chaeto. Should help

i
I currently run the sump lights for 8 hours a day during the overnight. Do you you think I should bumo them up to 10 or 12 hours?

 

[ericrodriguez]

If you don’t feed reef food to the coral what would you recommend instead because coral also needs to eat?

I would stop feeding reefroids. They'll spike your phosphates and that's what you're trying to avoid. Testing right after feeding the tank will result in the nutritients showing higher than what they'll be after going through your filtration. Increase photo period for the chaeto. Should help

 

[Foxchase]

If you don’t feed reef food to the coral what would you recommend instead because coral also needs to eat?

Corals don't need to eat. Thats why we use the lights that we do. That's how they "feed". While some have seen coral foods help them color up and grow, its not required other than maybe by some specific corals. They get all the nutrients they need from the water and the lights.
I'm not saying you can't or shouldn't feed them. But his phosphates are high. And products like reef roids cause massive spikes in nutrients so it's like fighting an uphill battle for him right now

 

[Foxchase]

i
I currently run the sump lights for 8 hours a day during the overnight. Do you you think I should bumo them up to 10 or 12 hours?

I had my fuge up for about 12-14 hours. Now I only keep my fuge on for like 5 hours. (but that's because I have very low nutrients so I'm trying to bump them up)

 

[Jon]

Weekly update:

Last night I tested my phosphates and they were .26. This is down from .34 one week ago. In my opinion this is telling me that my chaeto is working on eating the bad nutrients, which is great.

Today I did another 20 gallon water change and after I let the water cycle for 15 minutes I tested my phosphates again. Today they were .27. I did not store any of the water this time. I just made 20 fresh gallons overnight and pumped it right into the tank.

It’s got to be my RO system not getting all of the phosphates out. Like I’ve said many times my tds meter always reads zero and the unit is a five stage unit with the resin cartridge and is only a couple months old.

Should I add another resin chamber to it? Is something like this possible?

 

[Jon]

After doing some reading it sounds like adding another deionization filter to my rodi system should fix the problem. I found a blog on R2R saying that phosphates do not always show up on a tds meter and adding another di filter will take everything else out. If this doesn’t work I don’t know what will... attached is a link of the one I ordered.

Single Deionization Canister

Single Stage deionization canister. Perfect for adding a DI stage to your RO system or adding an additional stage to your current system. Comes with the Canister, Cartridge full of DI resin, and 5 feet of 1/4" tube. Features Perfect for adding a DI stage to your RO system or adding an...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Foxchase]

I would try it. If anything, you'll get longer life outta your di. Replace your filters add new DI resin and add another DI cartridge. Might help. If not, then you know that it isn't it.

 

[MadReefer]

Did you test your RODI water? My nitrates were high and thought same thing so tested RODI and it they were zero. So I knew problem was elsewhere.

 

[Jon]

Everything I have read said that you can’t test rodi water alone for phosphates. It has to be in a salt mix form. I did test my salt mix a couple weeks ago and it read .29 for phosphates. So my water is definitely coming out dirty although my tds meter is reading zero.

 

[Paulie 069]

Looking for some advice. My tank is 9 months old and I have approximately 80 gallons of water. It’s a 65 gallon tank with a 29 gallon sump. In my sump I have 10lbs of miracle mud, some rubble rock and chaeto. I run carbon in my filter sock and rowa phos in between the baffles in my sump. I change my carbon and rowa phos once a month. I also do 10 gallon water changes once a week. I have been using brightwell salt for the last six months.

For the last two months my tank has been doing extremely well. Honestly, once i added the miracle mud in my sump everything got better. Anyway, the last few weeks I have noticed some of the purple algae has been bleaching out. Not too much... Maybe 5% ish. Enough to notice though... Than my acans stopped plumping up, my anemone rock flower stopped expanding and now some of my zoas are sucking their heads in.

Today I did 20 gallon water change hoping this will correct things. If this does not work what else can I do? I don’t have any test kits to test my water and don’t have the money to purchase any right now either.

Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appericiated.

Thanks

I have spare Red Sea pro test kit you can have brother hit me up with a text tomorrow ( I don’t answer phone) but read my texts
609-290-5252 don’t be shy reach out I’ll hook u up as I don’t test water anymore, just listen to your coral they’ll let you know when somethings wrong. Then up to you to figure out why, part of the fun in this hobby, gives you a chance to bond with your tank
So if you want the test kit just hit me up