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Starting Bio-Pellets

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Sid call me and I will tell you. But I can not post it. Jon could get into trouble
 

howze01

NJRC Member
I'm getting a TLF reactor from the group buy and I'm going to run that as Bio Pellet reactor. I figured it's best to have it there from the start but now that I think about it will there be enough phos and 'trates to get them going in a new tank?
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
It's been just over a week since I re purposed my GFO reactor into a bio-pellet reactor. I used the bio-pellet insert from BRS and the PHA pellets they recommended, and put a MJ1200 pump on it. The pellets have a relatively slow steady tumble. My water parameters were good to start with, and haven't changed. The only thing that I can say is that, I've noticed a slight increase in the skimmers skim mate production, and it's a little darker. This methodology is supposed to take a few weeks to fully mature, so I'll keep you posted.

That is great if you are getting more skimming and it is darker. That means you are getting more crap out of your water that is what the bio Pellets do.
It could take 4 - 8 weeks to fully mature. The Pellets will go from white to a light tan color
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I'm getting a TLF reactor from the group buy and I'm going to run that as Bio Pellet reactor. I figured it's best to have it there from the start but now that I think about it will there be enough phos and 'trates to get them going in a new tank?

I will say no. You do not have any kind of bio load for the pellets to work.
 

howze01

NJRC Member
I'm going to be moving a lot of stuff over from my current tank to the new one. There won't be enough there until things get going? So I guess I'm better off running it as GFO for a few months and then just switching it over?
 
Here's a good read. :encouragement:

What are the Benefits of using Bio-Pellets?


  • NO3 and PO4 removal
  • No need to maintain a specific dosage or increase over time
  • No cyano or bacterial side effects
  • No risk of Overdosing
  • Simple to use…Set it and forget it.
  • Increases protein skimmer output
  • Bacteria is consumed by tank inhabitants like corals and sponges

How Do Bio-Pellets Work?

Solid carbon dosing (bio pellets) has recently become an extremely popular method of removing nitrates from the saltwater aquarium. Most Bio-Pellets are made primarily of a biodegradable polymer that “feed” and promote aerobic and anaerobic bacteria making it a viable carbon source to consume nutrients (NO3 and PO4) within the water column. Just like the traditional methods of dosing Vodka, vinegar or sugar as a carbon source directly to the water column to promote the reproduction of bacteria cultures in our aquarium system to consume nutrients with the common downside of unsightly, stringy bacteria throughout the system.
By utilizing a reactor filled with solid bio-pellets changes everything! Rather than staging the entire aquarium into an ecosystem of bacteria, a reactor allows us to provide those microscopic creatures with a “food dish” tucked neatly away in the stand. Now the bacteria congregate in the confined space of a reactor and continue the same life cycle as before without leaving their mess behind for us to look at.

You will need the following items to get started


  • Small Pump or feed source pushing around 300-500GPH depending on which model or bled off of your return pump via manifold.
  • 3/4″ID Hose
  • Biopellet media- *Add one cup of Bio Pellets per 50 gallons of system water volume to the reactor. For example a 100 gallon tank would use 2 cups of Bio Pellet media.
  • Recommend an appropriate sizes protein skimmer
  • * Optional bacterial strains like KZ Zeobak, MicroBacter7 or equivalent (This may speed up the process and help maintain populations of beneficial bacteria but is not absolutely required.)

How to Set up and Use Your Reactor


  1. Fill the reactor with the appropriate amount of Bio Pellets*
  2. Place the pump in the tank and Set up the reactor in your desired location. Apply the water flow to the reactor and adjust it so that all of the media is tumbling slowly to start. You may adjust the flow to your systems needs. For best results direct the effluent of the reactor near your protein skimmers intake pump.
  3. Bio-Pellets require up to 8 weeks for the bacteria to colonize. During this time resist any temptation to change anything settings to your reactor. You may experience a small bacterial bloom when initiated but will subside within a few days. For extreme cloudy water conditions take action by agitating the water surface.
  4. Top off every 3 months or so, back to their original quantity, to maintain maximum effectiveness.

Helpful tips


  • Remove GFO during the initial phases of the seeding of the reactor
  • Allow 8 weeks before making adjustments to the reactor
  • Additions of bacteria supplements can help diversify the bacteria
  • Remove UV sterilizers.
  • Make sure your skimmer is running at full efficiency and the effluent of the reactor is directed towards the skimmer feed pump
  • Keep the reactor in a dark area away from light
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
The longer you use them and the more Bacteria that is consumed it will be less sticky and stinky.
 
Great thrad. Exactly what I was looking for. I am adding a TLF 150 tommorrow. Going to use bio-pellets. I have some phosphates and am looking to run it this week. What brand do you guys recommend.
 
Great thrad. Exactly what I was looking for. I am adding a TLF 150 tommorrow. Going to use bio-pellets. I have some phosphates and am looking to run it this week. What brand do you guys recommend.

I'm just in start up and have no real experience. I bought the BRS labeled pellets, Dan says the Warner Marine EcoBak brand is best (I think I've seen them at TBaquatics), but it's possible they are one and the same.
 
Did you mean sticky or stinky?

Lol. Yes actually both. My sump looked like someone with a cold sneezed along the sides. The stink is pretty bad when you open up the collection cup.

Just as an FYI, I am no longer running pellets. I had a crash while in use, which I am not in any way implying caused by pellets, but I decided to go back to the fundamental until everything is back to normal.
 

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
If your tank water went milk white that means you had high Bacteria load in your system. It takes about seven days to clear up.
 
Just a quick update. It's been almost a month since I started the bio-pellets, and all param's are still good, although I've seen a decline in the amount of skim mate, to about half of what I was getting. I'm still only using about half the amount of pellets that were recommended, so I'm not sure if adding the second BRS reactor would make any sense.
 
A little over a month now and still ship shape. All nutrients are undetectable, skimmate still about the same. I'm still only running the one BRS reactor, which is half the suggested amount for my system.
 
I've been having issues with high nitrate, 50ppm. Went to pellets got the cloudy water lost sps and lps. My coral seem to do better with higher nitrate.
 

mnat

Officer Emeritus
Staff member
Moderator
I've been having issues with high nitrate, 50ppm. Went to pellets got the cloudy water lost sps and lps. My coral seem to do better with higher nitrate.

Depends on the coral and how long you have had 50 ppm nitrates. Some corals will do ok and even thrive in those conditions but SPS will over time brown out and die with that level of nitrates.

To keep this thread on track I picked up some warner marine eco bak pellets. I have 2 MR1 shorties chained together fed by a mj600. I am running carbon and phosban right now and thinking about which one to take out and which one to run first. I am thinking I will get more tumbling with the pellets in the first reactor but wonder if the carbon would pull anything out that was beneficial going back into the tank.
 
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