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Starting Bio-Pellets

TanksNStuff

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Yea, good article. I'm almost scared that I started using bio-pellets now. :nervous

I'm also a bit worried that I'm also using the Red Sea Coral Pro salt, which he said he had to switch out of due to high Alk (although my system never seems to have a high alk, in fact it's usually low even with that salt).

I started with half the recommended dosage, so maybe I'll just keep it there and see how that works. I think my system already has low oxygen to begin with (I never tested it, but believe it was a cause of my lower pH) so I don't want to risk that getting any worse.
 
falconut

falconut

NJRC Member
Interesting article. I've had my EcoBAK pellets going for 1-1/2 years now, but I'm still on the original 500 ml. They are smaller than when I got them, but not too much smaller. I didn't add any bacteria, was told the tank had enough. My NO3 and PO4 have tested at 0 for a while and my glass only needs cleaning once every 5 - 7 days. I've been getting some cyano and a thick goo algae in some spots, but I think it may be more due to detritus buildup.

My fish all swim around normal, none appear to be gasping for air. My SPS have lost color, but I think it might be the detritus buildup again. Can't complain about the pellets so far. My tank always had some testable NO3 & PO4, until I used them.
 
steamman

steamman

I have not done a water change in weeks since I started the bio pellets. My nitrates have definitely been dropping. When I started they were at 20ppm. Now they are at 5ppm. My phosphates are holding steady at 0.25. I am still running GFO but it should probably be changed by now. I have small amount of cyano here and there but no major outbreaks.

One problem is that I never really had to monitor my Alk and Calc much because I changed water very often. I noticed my SPS were not doing so well so I tested my Alk and Calc. Without the frequent water changes both levels were badly depleted.

I have been trying for the last three days to bring them up slowly. It seems to be getting used up almost as quickly as I put it back in. I am using Randy Holmes Farley two part. Mag seems fine for some reason.
 
steamman

steamman

I still have not done a water change on the tank I started the bio pellets in. My nitrates are now undetectable. My phosphates are holding or slowly dropping 0.21. I have not changed my GFO and I don't think it is working any more. I still have patches of cyano. My SPS look good.

I just received my Reef Octopus 110 to start on my breeding system. Mega water changes in that system. I hope it works with the super heavy feedings I do in it. What a time and money saver that would be if it works with such a heavy bio load.
 
downbeach

downbeach

I'm still using the BRS reactor with the bio pellet insert, and noticed over the last few weeks that the pellets weren't tumbling as much. I found a leak in the coupling that connects the PH to the 1/2" tubing, and replaced it, it seemed to work better for a while. Over the last few days the tumble has diminished to a point where there was no tumbling at all. I haven't done anything to disturb the canister up to this point, so I disassembled the reactor and removed the canister and found that the bottom slots in the canister had formed some kind of a 'crust' for lack of a better word, and were almost completely blocked. It was very hard and took me a while to remove it with a toothbrush, but after re-installing the reactor all is OK for now.
 
Daniel

Daniel

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
downbeach said:
I'm still using the BRS reactor with the bio pellet insert, and noticed over the last few weeks that the pellets weren't tumbling as much. I found a leak in the coupling that connects the PH to the 1/2" tubing, and replaced it, it seemed to work better for a while. Over the last few days the tumble has diminished to a point where there was no tumbling at all. I haven't done anything to disturb the canister up to this point, so I disassembled the reactor and removed the canister and found that the bottom slots in the canister had formed some kind of a 'crust' for lack of a better word, and were almost completely blocked. It was very hard and took me a while to remove it with a toothbrush, but after re-installing the reactor all is OK for now.
Click to expand...

Yes that happen at times. No big deal.
 
TanksNStuff

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I've been using the TLF 150 reactor for mine with an MJ1200. Only "mod" I did was to remove the sponges and use the mesh instead. Mine has been keeping a steady, slow tumble ever since I started it up about 3 weeks ago. I'm hoping it keeps going like that. I did not add any bacteria as I believe my system should be established enough already. My reactor discharge tube is practically kissing my skimmers pump intake.

As far as results from using the pellets, I'll add a few quick notes:

1. I stopped using GFO when I started with the pellets and my phosphates were at .09 ppm (Hannah checker). Nitrates were reading 0.0, but it's an API kit that I plan to replace soon. I've been running only GAC still in my BRS Dual reactor. The GFO canister is empty.
2. I've been noticing a slight increase in algae building on the glass (brown diatoms and a small amount of cyano) over the first couple weeks. I've been cleaning with mag float more often then I used to. The 3rd week it doesn't seem to be as bad, but it still builds up every couple days.
3. Been meaning to check my parameters but haven't had a chance to with the holidays and all. :( Also been holding off until I get a new test kit for Nitrates. Maybe I'll get a chance this weekend.
4. All my corals and fish seem to be in the same shape as before I started. Even my chaeto seems to be growing at the same pace it used to.
5. Skimmate has been a bit nastier than usual. It's a much greener "sludge" as opposed to my old brownish watery skimmate. It smells a whole lot worse now too. Luckily my drain off container only has a small opening and the smell isn't noticeable unless you stick your nose right up to the opening.
6. I started with half the recommended dosage and plan to add 1/4 the dosage more at the 4-week mark.
7. I plan to start GFO again also, depending upon my readings.
 
Hawkeye

Hawkeye

Ok - i'm late to the party as usual but i finally started my octopus reactor that i got from the PA GB.

http://reefgizmo.com/2011/01/super-reef-octopus-biopellet-reactor-review-and-coupons/

I'm running the smallest version on my 120. I added like barely half a cup of pellets to start. At first the pellets go stuck to air and floated up to the top but after 24 hrs have all settled nicely. The way my sump is setup (return manifold to the skimmer) I cannot point the outlet into the skimmer only - it goes to both.

In terms of other nutrient export, i still have a massive amount of chaeto macroalgae growing - will that all be impacted by running biopellets? Or will i still be in the business of giving this green stuff away?
EDIT: nevermind i just re-read what george posted above and see his cheato continues on. Got it.

fwiw i'm using a mini-jet 606 for my reactor. The weblink above has a 211gph tunze pump. My pellets are basically spinning in the same amount of vigor when I look at that youtube video. I know we are supposed to add more pellets as they are consumed - but is there an optimum amount? I read earlier we start slow and then slowly build up to the recommended amt...but what is that recommended amt?

fyi i am NOT running carbon or gfo.
 
TanksNStuff

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Phil, I'm not sure of the difference between the brands of pellets, but each one should provide a "recommended" amount to run per xxx gallons. During the initial break-in period (about 3-4 weeks) you should only be adding about 1/4 to 1/2 of the recommended amount. That way to don't shock your system and take out too many nutrients while the bacteria begin to cultivate on the pellets. After a few weeks, you can slowly add more pellets to raise your total to the recommended amount.

My plan is 50% initially, add 25% after 3-4 weeks (it's ending up being 4 weeks since I didn't get a chance to do it this past weekend) and then add another 25% in a couple weeks after that. From there, it's basically just keeping an eye on it and adding a bit only when the pellets start to shrink. I'm going to use a marker to make a line on my reactor once I hit the 100% dosage. Then I'll know when it gets low enough to add some more... and more importantly, how much more to add.
 
downbeach

downbeach

I removed the BRS reactor I had re-purposed for bio pellets and activated a new RO reactor. The new reactor will allow me to double the amount of pellets, to the recommended amount for my system (3 cups). I can't seem to get my PO4 below .08, and will reactivate the BRS reactor for GFO, after first running the new unit, to see if the additional pellets has any affect.

Bio-PelletReactor.jpg
 
downbeach

downbeach

My impatience and the need for instant gratification caused me to redeploy the GFO reactor without waiting to see if the additional pellets had any effect. The PO4 is now at '0' after 2 days of operation. I'm wondering if I should put it on a timer and just run it for a ? hours each day. Opinions?
 
Hawkeye

Hawkeye

Hey - i am starting to see that weird snotty build up in my octopus reactor - right at the top next to the outlet. Do we clean this stuff off or do I leave it be? Thanks.
 
downbeach

downbeach

Hawkeye said:
nothing. just the pellets and the reactor. Should I?
Click to expand...

Not necessarily, but if you were I was going to suggest that you cut back until the "snotties" disappeared. In that case, in the interest in keeping an unimpeded flow going, I would clean it out.
 
downbeach

downbeach

Here's the amount of pellets that have been consumed in my system over the last 9+ weeks.

First picture was taken on February 17, the second today (April 24)

Bio-PelletReactor.jpg



IMG_1143.jpg
 
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