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Sulfur Denitrator: Who's running one?

A sulfur de-nitrator can pull down your Alk big time. It will alos affect PH. Not sure if you said you are dosing kalk or are going to be dosing kalk. I think the kalk with help with the PH. You may have to dose for the Alk.
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
jamesbuf said:
...
Last question for Carlo. Where did you get that special connector for your ORP probe that reverses the ORP readings?? Do I still need to do this for my ACIII??
...

Just a word of caution, using this special connector never worked for us (actually most of the stuff he recommended didn't work, but that's another matter). I would suggest that you don't waste your time or money with that idea. It gives you a false sense of optimism that leads to frustration and disappointment.

Sorry I can't help on the low pH issue.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
From what Carlo said you could use the Milwalkee controller. It is supposed do negative ORP. I'd contact the manufacturer to be sure as I have not confirmed this.
 
Just to drag this one back from the dead.

I have just setup a new reactor using the Redox control method. Everything has been going fine for two days now sitting on ~170.

But this morning the tank has gone all milky. What would cause this?

All fish and livestock are fine with no smells coming from the water.
 

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Is it possible that something else (your kalk reactor) caused the milky? I didn't see anything like that while we were running it.
 
Nope my Ca reactor is fine.

I am starting to think that the two teaspoons of sugar that I added to the reactor to kick start it has caused it.

It took a day for it to happen which would coincide with the time taken for the water to expel from the reactor at a slow drip.

Does this sound plausible?
 

JohnS_323

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
It sounds a lot like the calcium precipitated out of solution. I don't know that anything you did related to the sulfur denitrator would have caused it, though. The only thing I can think is that if you are running it like we did, with Ca reactor meadia in the second chamber, you could have upset the balance causing the Ca to drop out. If it is calcium precipitation it's no big deal. You'll wind up with a "snow" all over everything that will go back into solution in a day or so.

If you don't get that snow, it is possible that it's an algae bloom brought on by the sugar.
 
I have set it up as per Carlos's instructions. But am not using the second chamber full of Ca media yet.

Hopefully the bloom will subside in the next day or so. But will be watching the fish closely for signs of oxygen deprivation.
 
I built one from plans on Reef Central cost about $50.00 for materials and $65.00 for media. Its only been running for 2 weeks and my nitrates were off the wall now its down to 20 soon I think it will level off at 10 which is my goal
 
I have been running an H&S 110 for about 6 months it took almost 4 months to really get going.I talked to the people at Finsreef and they said I may not have had enough crabon.So I dosed 1ml of Vodka every other day for 4 weeks.I went from 10ppm to 2.5 during that time at 2 Drips per second.You have to get the drip rate just right until it is set and you don't touch it unless your nitrates climb.I now test about once a month and I am at 0 nitrates.This unit works great and my alk does not dip at all.I use enough crushed coral at the top and my ph coming out is around 7.2 which is not that bad.I just use a auto topoff with kalk and never had PH or alk issues.My alk is aroun 9dkh and ph stays around 8.2.I reccomend using the larger grade media in the sulfu reactor.Just my experience with this unit has been great.It just takes some time to fine tune it.But I think its worth its wweight in gold no more glass algae or algae on the sand all gone.Corals growing like weeds.
 
controlling my midwest unit via a ORP controller

I've been running nitrate reactors for as long as I can remember. I've done carbon & sulfur and prefer sulfur as I think it's easier. I have ORP probes installed in mine and use negative ORP readings to control the affluent. I keep mine nailed at -170mv.

IMHO I wouldn't even think of running one with an ORP controller. I used to think I could dial them in good but it's nothing compared to setting a specific ORP reading and having it stay there. Above -50mv (going towards positive) and you aren't doing anything, under -300mv and it's BAD, between -150mv & -200mv is pretty optimum.

Carlo

I am interested in controlling my midwest unit via a ORP controller .. I get the concept but want specifics on using a solenoid valve or two at different or variable
flows . Is it as simple as turning on and off the aqua lifter ? Would you ever have to restrict the effluent line like I do now ? Just looking for the best setup the
first time.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Not sure if you noticed, but the last post in this thread before yours was over 2 years ago. I'm not even sure anyone is still using this method anymore, but I could be wrong.
 
I know , but some things come full circle sometimes . What would be the newest method now for controlling Nitrates ? I still think a reactor like this just needs help keeping in adjustment
and since I am using one as if was the latest thing. I was reading about using ORP to control but this thread lacked anyone automating it via variable flow .

180G
55g sump with ~ 15g refuge
Etss 600 skimmer ( with carbon filter for air in and out )
5 stage ro/di
Phosban Reactor 1 cup HC GFO changed every 6 weeks
Carbon reactor 1.3cups changed every 2 weeks
Midwest denitrification unit
Mangove and chaeto in refuge
2 Hydor Koralia Magnum 6 on off switching every 2 hrs with 15 min overlap
3 Maxi-Jet 900's behind rock
Mag Dive 12 return
3 22x26 heat sinks with 40 Cree 3w XP-E's 2/1 ratio blue/white with 4 XP-G for high noon each. Total 120 leds
50gal food grade fresh DI storage
40w Uv
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Tony, there are still some people using under gravel filters around here and swear by them. I wasn't knocking you on trying to use this method... was just letting you know it was an old thread in case you didn't notice that.

I think Sid is right though. Bio-pellets, skimmers, and macro algae seem to be the most popular methods to reduce nitrates these days. Usually a combination of some or all of them is the case.
 

radiata

NJRC Member
I've been running a DIY Sulfur filter for a few years now. The NO3 in my 600g system doesn't get above 6ppm. I also dose carbon.
 
I wonder if anyone still prefers using sulfur denitrators, especially with ORP controller? Planning to build one and have some questions...
 
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