top bracket removed. front bowing out...i screwed up big.

[saltkreep88]

That looks like it should hold just fine, but a couple things to look out for:

- I would check the tanks seams to make sure there are no big bubbles, or lighter colored sections. That most flex in the glass can permanently hurt the seams.
- Make sure the silicon you used does not have mold and mildew killers in it (I know it is not in the water, but I still wouldn't want it that close to tank water.
- Watch the screws, if they are not high quality stainless steel they will rust in no time

, Joe

 

[TanksNStuff]

I agree that is a suitable fix option. Hadn't thought of that, but it's always good to get creative juices flowing. Hopefully those brackets are SS also.

I would move the clamp to the plastic frame instead of on the glass though.

 

[ryanpal]

i used dap dynaflex 230....trying to see if it's reef safe. hoping for the best since it's already used.

i covered the screws (top and bottom) to prevent any rusting.

 

[ryanpal]

great...after researching it seems this stuff isn't silicone (thanks home depot rep) and does have mildew preventatives. the saga continues.

 

[ryanpal]

anyone have any suggestions of how i can get this stuff off without using harmful chemicals?

i forgot the frustrations of this hobby...i hope i didnt make a mistake getting back in

 

[saltkreep88]

Is any of the new adhesive in contact with the water?

 

[ryanpal]

under the plastic, the screws and parts of the glass behind the frame on the glass

 

[saltkreep88]

If you have coral, I would lower the water level so the adhesive is not in the water, then run carbon. The mold inhibitor has been know to wipe out corals. I will let the experts chime in on how serious this is, and how to remove it.

 

[ecam]

If you have coral, I would lower the water level so the adhesive is not in the water, then run carbon. The mold inhibitor has been know to wipe out corals. I will let the experts chime in on how serious this is, and how to remove it.

Mold inhibtor... wiped out my tank in 24-48 hrs....

 

[ryanpal]

this tank has no corals or fish...it's cycling. i did my best to scrape, rub and used some acetone to try and remove some of the excess.

screws will be replaced and covered with silicone. if any remnants are left behind but under the silicone...should i have an issue?

 

[saltkreep88]

Post which silicone you plan to use here first, and if it is under silicone it shouldn't be an issue. But that assuming the silicone is covering it all and water tight.

 

[ryanpal]

you guys tell me which to buy so i dont go through this again

i believe 100% silicone is the way to go right?

 

[JRWOHLER]

you guys tell me which to buy so i dont go through this again

i believe 100% silicone is the way to go right?

Man I believe a new tank is the way to go....big plastic brute or Rubbermaid container to hold everything until you get it. No offense but this is more hassle than you need.

 

[ryanpal]

Man I believe a new tank is the way to go....big plastic brute or Rubbermaid container to hold everything until you get it. No offense but this is more hassle than you need.

yes i agree, however im confident with that fix as long as i can make it reef safe from the damage i just caused. i can have the brackets and silicone done in 10min vs pulling the rock out, moving in the new tank etc.

 

[ryanpal]

does anyone have recommendations of reef safe screws? i dont want to mess that up. oddly i havent found many topics on it. some say stainless will eventually rust and since this the tips (although covered in silicone) will be submerged.

 

[saltkreep88]

100% silicone does NOT mean no mold inhibitors. That is the mistake people make. You want ge 1 or anything marketed for aquarium use you will find at pet stores.

 

[redfishbluefish]

You want GE Silicone I.

 

[ryanpal]

does home depot sell GE silicone I?

 

[saltkreep88]

Usually

 

[ryanpal]

sounds good...i'll check there. looks like nylon screws is a good option if i can find them