Anyone out there running one? Considering building one for a 150. I like lots of Flow. I have twin EcoTech Vortechs on my 90 Fowler, they move tons of water but can be a bit tempermental, and they don't make one for the thinkness of glass on a 150. My concerns are how would I get the pipe out side of the tank to stay put and not vibrate...etc etc....can i hang it on the tank??? All thoughts are welcome....
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Un drilled Closed Loop
- Thread starter Reilly Stv
- Start date
reefsandrotts
NJRC Member
Steve
You can mount the pump behind the tank at the top and run an ocean motion.
God knows theres enough room in the canopy.
Jim
You can mount the pump behind the tank at the top and run an ocean motion.
God knows theres enough room in the canopy.
Jim
I ran a pair of over the top siphons to feed two seperate CLs on my old 75. It worked very well.I also use one now to feed my chiller pump. I have pictures somewhere :
Some keys to it are: Over size the siphon & return tubes to avoid starving the pump and reduce frictional losses. Use a Tee at the top of the siphon tube with a plug on top so you can prime the CL. Be sure to use unions at the top and bottom and ball valves above the unions by the pump so you can remove the pump for cleaning. You can reduce the size of the viewable pluming in the tank to what ever meets you needs. I use a piece of 1" pipe with slots cut into it and a strainer on the bottom, just be certain all above water connections are air tight and no openings can ever be above the water line.
As long as all outlets are below water, once primed, the CL will not loose prime when turned off. The pump can be on the floor or a shelf, as there will be zero head only frictional loss.
Some keys to it are: Over size the siphon & return tubes to avoid starving the pump and reduce frictional losses. Use a Tee at the top of the siphon tube with a plug on top so you can prime the CL. Be sure to use unions at the top and bottom and ball valves above the unions by the pump so you can remove the pump for cleaning. You can reduce the size of the viewable pluming in the tank to what ever meets you needs. I use a piece of 1" pipe with slots cut into it and a strainer on the bottom, just be certain all above water connections are air tight and no openings can ever be above the water line.
As long as all outlets are below water, once primed, the CL will not loose prime when turned off. The pump can be on the floor or a shelf, as there will be zero head only frictional loss.
Subliminal
NJRC Member
I did one as well, except I used a SCWD wavemaker:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=100
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/blog.php?b=100