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Water Params

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Tested water and used my new Hanna ALk checker:

Alk - 12.6 Hanna, 13 API
Calc - 460
Phosphate - 0
Nitrate - 30/40, closer to 40, color chart was in between

I have to say Hanna was easier than API but similar results.
I am now thinking Nitrates are causing my Diatom problem.
I started Phosguard but no considering GFO instead. Thoughts appreciated.
 
D

Deleted member 27248

Guest
Alk seems very high for having no phosphate.why do you run it that high?
 

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Alk used to be 8 with weekly dosing. I made a hand made dripped and this is the slowest without clogging. Guess it's back to manual Alk & Calc dosing.
 
D

Deleted member 27248

Guest
Are all the corals shriveled up? Or are they happy?
 

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
How are you dosing alk?
What salt are you using?

Recently started using Instant Ocean Reef Crystals. I only perform monthly water changes of 10g. It's a manual process so....

Are all the corals shriveled up? Or are they happy?
All seem fine except for stuck but never could keep them. Purple mili is soso.
The finger leathers signs of polyp extension but no go.
 
D

Deleted member 27248

Guest
I use a cheap 60 Amazon doser...that’s the way to go.
 
A kamoer x1 doser is a really good one and it's like $50. I Definitely recommend getting a doser if you need one. Stability is key
 
whatever man. if it dies then it wasnt meant to be. so thats what i tell my wife. we buy 10 corals and 3 die, and shes like oh we need to buy 10 more...

uh.. no
 

eholceker

NJRC Member
Wouldn't the GFO consume nitrates? Not sure I understand your post.

No, gfo will only remove phosphates not nitrates. Diatoms mainly feed off of silicates which is pretty much always present in your tank. It's one of the major elements in saltwater. They can also feed on nitrates. So by bringing your nitrates down you will limit excess food for the diatoms to consume and grow. If your nitrates are indeed 40 a 50% water change will only bring them down to 20. The another 50% will take them down to 10.
 

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
Added some Purigen last week and numbers are trending down on Nitrate. Today was second dose of IO Nitrate Reducer as well.

Nitrate - 15/20
Alk - 9.1
Calc - 400

Went back to manual dosing. Also, used turkey baster to stir up the sand bed this morning. Have to say the diatoms blew off easily so hoping they are slowly going away.
Might have to start doing this weekly.
 

DangerDave

NJRC Member
You may be cutting off your nose.... Purigen won’t remove nitrates (which aren’t too high in your system anyway). It removes organic waste like a skimmer or carbon. The organic waste (think ammonia) eventually contributes to nitrates through your bio filter. Your corals utilize those same organics to grow. Corals can use nitrates in place of ammonia, but it’s an energy costly process.
 

MadReefer

Staff member
NJRC Member
Moderator
You may be cutting off your nose.... Purigen won’t remove nitrates (which aren’t too high in your system anyway). It removes organic waste like a skimmer or carbon. The organic waste (think ammonia) eventually contributes to nitrates through your bio filter. Your corals utilize those same organics to grow. Corals can use nitrates in place of ammonia, but it’s an energy costly process.
I ordered the NeoPhos to add Phos. Per the info I have read Purigen does remove Nitrates; I just want the 5 / 10 range not 40 plus.
 

DangerDave

NJRC Member
Purigen is a great product. I have used it with great success on my estuary system. I’d be suspect of where you would read that and suggest the mfr’s product page to be sure you have the correct info.


From this page:

Purigen® controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds. Purigen’s impact on trace elements is minimal. It significantly raises redox. It polishes water to unparalleled clarity.
 
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