• Folks, if you've recently upgraded or renewed your annual club membership but it's still not active, please reach out to the BOD or a moderator. The PayPal system has a slight bug which it doesn't allow it to activate the account on it's own.

What is best method for securing/bonding LR?

AngelPete

AngelPete

I would like to make more room for my angels and tangs in the bottom of the tank as they are getting bigger. Only the juvi angels now fit in the caves. I have a 210 so have plenty of room going up. Would like to bond / tie my LR but Im afraid the epoxy alone may not hold the rock by itself. what is best to use to secure LR? I've heard of people drilling and tying rocks. What is used to the tie the rocks if I opt to to do this?


thanks

Pete
 
S

SHLUZER

I made a frame from PVC pipe, used zip-ties to put live rock around it , drilled where necessary.
Not sure how long zip tie will survive in salt water.
 
ricwilli

ricwilli

I like the hole and peg thing. If you get tired of looking at the same aquascape, you can move some rocks around easily. I don't know how easily rocks can separate once its epoxy together. I never tried it.
 
TanksNStuff

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
downbeach said:
These work well for rods:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I've also assembled some 3" PVC fittings under my rock-work to provide both caves for the fish to swim through and added circulation in the dead spots around the base my overflow chambers, and behind/through my rocks.
Click to expand...

If you use those driveway markers, be careful when cutting them because they are fiberglass and the ends will fray... which may lead to splinters. I prefer using actual acrylic rods (preferably square or triangle shape because the epoxy bonds better than round), but Don's idea for using plastic coat hangers is good also. Cheap and readily available. ;)

Whichever type of rod you use, the technique is the same:

{Before doing any drilling, do a "dry run" and stack your rocks the way you want it to look. Then look for the "beefiest" parts and the perfect angle to drill. It may help to hold a rod along side it to visualize where you would place a rod thru to give the best support.}

1. Drill hole in bottom rock as deep as you can without penetrating through it. Try to ream the bottom of the hole a slightly larger diameter by angling the drill. This will also widen the top area, but that's ok. Just try to ream it out at the bottom with the tip.
2. Drill the bottom of your top rock to the depth you think will keep it secure... being sure not to go all the way through (unless you plan to also stack another rock on top of that one, in which case you would want to drill straight thru... just make sure the cap rock stops before going straight thru.)
3. Then stick your rod in the hole of the bottom rock to see how much you need to cut off for the top rock(s). 4" or so should be good enough for the topmost rock to set onto... but shorter is ok if the top rock is small.
4. Once you cut the rod to the right length, stuff some epoxy in the hole of the bottom rock and push in the rod. You may need to twist it to get it all the way down. The wider part of the bottom should have enough epoxy to harden around the rod and hold it in place when it dries. You can wedge some more epoxy around the rod at the middle and top so it stays sturdy in the hole. Let it harden before adding next rock.
5. If you want this to be permanent, you can also epoxy the holes of stacking rocks, but if you have a tight fitting hole the weight of the rock should work good enough to hold it in place. Just slide the next rock onto the rod and spin it into the position you want it to be. Repeat to add additional rocks if you want until the cap rock is on.
6. If it feels a bit flimsy, you can make some epoxy wedges to place between some rocks where they meet to make a nice flat base... which will help secure it. If you want to rearrange this later, it doesn't take much force to break them apart, especially if you let it harden on the upper rock before placing it on the rod.

A couple notes/tips:
1. Use a masonry bit as this is like drilling concrete.
2. The longer the rod is, the more flexible it will be and it may tend to bend. You can do two parallel rods to help strengthen longer runs. This also helps keep rocks from rotating on a single rod, so it holds position better.
3. Here's an online store that sells rods (round and shapes). Also check out the "extruded attachment shapes" and see if you can get any creative ideas!
4. Take pics so we can see all your work!
 
AngelPete

AngelPete

This is some awesome info. Thanks so much for the ideas guys. :encouragement: Will definitely begin looking to redo the aquascaping soon and will post pics & video. This weekend im finally installing my new SRO 3000 skimmer i bought in the group buy... :tickled_pink: thanks again.

Pete
 
r2reyzer

r2reyzer

NJRC Member
Had the same thing come up with my FO tank last summer...I ended up drilling holes in the live rock and using acrylic rods to secure a "bridge" to open up a nice open area towards the bottom of my tank.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top