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30lbs of live rock in main display / in middle chamber (small fuge)w/ algae
substant. 50\50 sand crushed coral.
100w heater
stock return pump. 1 koralia 3. 1 koralia nano.
added additional pc. 108w total.
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going to add more pics have to upload them to photobucket b/c cant upload on here pics are to big
Sorry to say but the advice from your friend is not sound and is about 30 years old. A damsel/fish produces ammonia to help get the cycle going - but this can be easily done via a piece of shrimp you might buy at any local supermarket. It's definitely more humane at least since a fish living thru the cycle will have it's gills burned by the ammonia.
That first pic is fantastic - with a camera phone you say? Crisp and in focus.
what is that in the back left corner - chaeto? And uh...that's there because you want to grow pods?
Personally I'm not a fan of algae in the display. Were you going to get a HOB fuge? I'm not a fan of it but i know a lot of people think they are great given the space limitations.
Depends on what it is you need. In my opinion most of it is not needed as long as you maintain a good level of water changes. But since a lot of us do not do that - we're left with rushing additives in to help keep the tank balanced (also it seems easier to dump a bag of media/chemical than it is to lug another 5 gallons of water).
what additives were you being told to get?
btw - i am not casting any judgement on those who use a lot of additives versus those who do not. There are many ways to this hobby and it really all "depends" on what it is you are looking to do.
like some say that add the same mineral and chems. that are found in the ocean. i think the one bottle said 70 trace elements... i know there was a red sea one that said its not even recommended till your tank is at least three years old... kent made one too. and the back of the bottles say at daily. i mean i have problem with the water changes because i do them on my 55 gal discus tank everyweek anyways. i rather not have to add anything if ur saying the water changes are sufficient
I think the general rule of thumb in the beginning is to not dose something you can't test for. You should be able to be successful by maintaining a good water change schedule.
The problem with dosing is (as john mentioned) the difficulty around measuring what it is you are dosing.
For example - Iodine is known to many as important in a reef tank. yet it exists in various chemical compositions that it is difficult to measure correctly - and worse, it's been documented that too MUCH iodine can be detrimental to the tank.