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Marks...Back to the Future..Reef Aquarium

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I would use your net water volume. Keep in mind, your sump isn't going to be full, since you'll need to have enough room for the back flow from your tank when you turn the pumps off.
 
I would use your net water volume. Keep in mind, your sump isn't going to be full, since you'll need to have enough room for the back flow from your tank when you turn the pumps off.

Yes, then I figured the 120g sump for around 60g. I guess the 180 with rock and sand, 135ish so 195 rounding to 200. Seems like 3x300 watt should do the job. I was hoping to keep it to 2 heaters.

On the socks, mesh or felt?
 
Yes, then I figured the 120g sump for around 60g. I guess the 180 with rock and sand, 135ish so 195 rounding to 200. Seems like 3x300 watt should do the job. I was hoping to keep it to 2 heaters.

On the socks, mesh or felt?

Felt will do a better job, but require more cleaning. I use the mesh more to keep larger pieces of debris, and errant critters from getting into my pumps.
 
Felt will do a better job, but require more cleaning. I use the mesh more to keep larger pieces of debris, and errant critters from getting into my pumps.

They were saying the felt seems to polish the water...good enough for me! Thanks!
 

mnat

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Felt generally has smaller holes so it will keep your water cleaner, the problem with that is that they gunk of quicker which means they need to be cleaned and swapped more often. There are proponents of both but mesh seem to be more popular.
 

redfishbluefish

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I belong to the MESH party. Felt requires either a washing machine cleaning or soaking in bleach (and then some) to get them clean (a real PIA.) With mesh, I run them under running water while I rub the fabric together. About once a year I’ll soak them in a bleach solution to get them squeaky clean.
 
I belong to the MESH party. Felt requires either a washing machine cleaning or soaking in bleach (and then some) to get them clean (a real PIA.) With mesh, I run them under running water while I rub the fabric together. About once a year I’ll soak them in a bleach solution to get them squeaky clean.

To mnat and redfishbluefish maybe I'll get two of each type and rotate them as they get dirty.
 
Have been doing a water test on the sump the last two days and noted water gradually works its way into the 3 center compartments that were part of the wet/dry filter. The water is below the bulkhead you see at the top. I felt around the inside and found no cracks or opening. It must be coming through a seam. The tank outside is dry, as well as the two smaller compartment on each end were the overflows were used. So my concern it that this area will become a dead spot causing problems. I guess I could let my drains go in these compartments and pipe the over flow to one end of the tank. Any thoughts on this and a sump design on this 6 footer? This is a strange tank. Thanks for the input as always...

sump12.jpg

sump13.jpg

sump14.jpg
 
How hard would it be to remove the bulkhead separating the two compartments? If water gets into an area that has no flow you run the risk of developing H2S(hydrogen sulfide), in that area.
 
How hard would it be to remove the bulkhead separating the two compartments? If water gets into an area that has no flow you run the risk of developing H2S(hydrogen sulfide), in that area.

Its actually all three long middle compartments that are filling. Do you mean to cut the acrylic middle panel between the main area and those 3 long compartments? I guess its possible but afraid it could weaken the tank over all. What do you think of having the two main drains from the DT go into these compartments (with filter socks) and then overflow to the main tank?
 

Tommyboynj

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Looking good so far. I think if some weld on will seal up thise seams real good. That stuff is magic. Where abouts in jackson are you mark. Oh and how do youlike the crossfire. Nice ride.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Looking good so far. I think if some weld on will seal up thise seams real good. That stuff is magic. Where abouts in jackson are you mark. Oh and how do youlike the crossfire. Nice ride.

Sent from my SCH-I535

Rob (Hockeynut) is going to help me out with the weld stuff. I assume it has to be the seam, I see no other way water reaches those 3 middle compartments. It's just strange there is no leaks in the 2 end compartments on both sides. If I can seal those off, I'm all set to work on the sump. Next nice day of, I'm going to start clean it up and getting it read for the fix.

I'm northwest Jackson off Burke rd about 10 minutes from Great Adventure. The Crossfire is a 2004 that I really baby. Very fun to drive.

Nice to meet another close Jackson reefer, where you at in this large town..
 
What do you think of having the two main drains from the DT go into these compartments (with filter socks) and then overflow to the main tank?

That would solve having to find/fix the leak. Might be the better route to go, that way the water leaks into the main compartment and no harm done and you get constant water flow throughout.
 
That would solve having to find/fix the leak. Might be the better route to go, that way the water leaks into the main compartment and no harm done and you get constant water flow throughout.

If the weld does not work, that is my back up plan. Controlling the flow might be an issue, but I'll worry about that after if the weld does not work.
 
I'm now thinking maybe I should just cut out that whole middle panel and increase the overall sump size. It looks only like 1/4 inch, and is Euro braced above so shouldn't hurt the tank strength wise. I'd also cut out the baffles from the wet.dry section.
 

Hockeynut

NJRC Member
I would be very careful trying to pull those pieces Apart That weld on stuff they used to assemble those tanks fuses the two pieces of acrylic together It's not like silicone that you can just cut free.
 
I would be very careful trying to pull those pieces Apart That weld on stuff they used to assemble those tanks fuses the two pieces of acrylic together It's not like silicone that you can just cut free.

I was going to just just cut through the 1/4" acrylic and leave an inch or two on the edges. The baffles would be tricky.
 

kschweer

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I would be very careful trying to pull those pieces Apart That weld on stuff they used to assemble those tanks fuses the two pieces of acrylic together It's not like silicone that you can just cut free.

+1. Weld-on basically chemically "melts" the acrylic together. The seams can actually be stronger than the acrylic itself. Pulling it apart you will likely break the acrylic before the seam.

I would definitely cut it like you are thinking.
 
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