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Marks...Back to the Future..Reef Aquarium

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mnat

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Here is the link to the bluelines which are really good pumps:

http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=1209

Look at the head height on these and the watts, also realize they are 1 inch threaded fittings where the diablos are 1.5 inch which is different. I just recently though of changing, but I have to stick with the blue lines at this point. When the head lift gets better on the DC pumps, we might change if the threading is standard.
 
So you think I can get enough flow on this style pump with 11 feet of head? Its rated for up to 21 ft!

I also noted the watts doubles between the 10000 and 12000...

I don't know, but it would give you another 1,500 lph over the Diablo. If you can wait, I understand there is a DC 20,000 soon to be released. Otherwise, you might stay with something that is a known performer.
 
Here is the link to the bluelines which are really good pumps:

http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=1209

Look at the head height on these and the watts, also realize they are 1 inch threaded fittings where the diablos are 1.5 inch which is different. I just recently though of changing, but I have to stick with the blue lines at this point. When the head lift gets better on the DC pumps, we might change if the threading is standard.

Those pumps are really well built, but the watts run on the high side. I have no issue running a 1.5 inch return, splitting to two 3/4 inch returns just below the tank. It's just a question of enough volume for a 180. It seems the Diablo will be around 2000 gals at 11 ft of head, which should be more that enough. (based on the chart). I think I'm going to try a DC pump and if it doesn't work back track to a tradition pump.
 
I don't know, but it would give you another 1,500 lph over the Diablo. If you can wait, I understand there is a DC 20,000 soon to be released. Otherwise, you might stay with something that is a known performer.

Do you think I would need more flow? It looks like at max I could get 2000 gals at 11 feet of head. I figured with that much, I'd be dialing it back.

Is the rule 3-5 times volume of the tank in gph? So my 180 would need 900 gph max? Not sure a 1 inch full siphon could handle that much.
 
If you only have a single overflow, that's going to be the determining factor, since you can't push more water up than can flow back. I believe the "safe" amount through a 1" overflow is 600 gph, although I figure I'm pushing around 700 through mine. The nice thing about the DC pumps is that you can dial them back to suit your needs, and still have some in reserve. I think I'd plumb in a manifold, for future use, i.e. GAC, GFO, BP reactors, and use the reserve as needed. I think I'd go with the larger DC 12000, and have the reserve. I don't think there's a big difference in price.
 
If you only have a single overflow, that's going to be the determining factor, since you can't push more water up than can flow back. I believe the "safe" amount through a 1" overflow is 600 gph, although I figure I'm pushing around 700 through mine. The nice thing about the DC pumps is that you can dial them back to suit your needs, and still have some in reserve. I think I'd plumb in a manifold, for future use, i.e. GAC, GFO, BP reactors, and use the reserve as needed. I think I'd go with the larger DC 12000, and have the reserve. I don't think there's a big difference in price.

The price difference isn't much, I just wanted to keep the watts down. But if I'm controling it down the watts should be down too.

At least I have that worked out in my head,,,lol
 

kschweer

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Not too sure of any places around you. If you can't find anything close there is everything plastic in Philly right by the WW bridge and also offshore glass and plastic which is down my way in pleasantville.
 
Not too sure of any places around you. If you can't find anything close there is everything plastic in Philly right by the WW bridge and also offshore glass and plastic which is down my way in pleasantville.

Thanks! You would think it would be easier to find, especially online.
 
I found an online site that seems pretty good. So my next question is;

The sump in 72" long, 20" high and 13" wide, I figured I'd have four sections.

Return with socks and skimmer, followed by refug section, followed by frag section, followed by return area/pump.

How high do you think each baffle should be? The sump has a built in overflow area (the old wet/dry) that can hold a lot of water in case of an emergency back flow. So the sump can be pretty deep.

I was thinking 15" between skimmer and refug, 14" between refuge and frag area, and 13" between frag area and return.

I was going to use just use single baffles since the distance between the skimmer and return is so far away, and any bubbles would most likely be gone.

Your thoughts? Is using a step down in size the way to go?
 

kschweer

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The only issue I see with using the overflow section of the sump as extra space for water in an emergency is that once the power turns back on or you turn the system back on that water is essentially lost and your pump may run dry.
 
The only issue I see with using the overflow section of the sump as extra space for water in an emergency is that once the power turns back on or you turn the system back on that water is essentially lost and your pump may run dry.

The backup overflow wouldn't start till past the 16 gallon mark in the sump.

You ok with the step down baffles without the bubble trap? And do you think 3/16th thickness is ok or should I stay with the 1/4" baffles?
 
In regard to baffles, should they all be the same height (except for middle bubble trap before the return), or done in a step down pattern. 15" between skimmer and refuge, 14" between refuge and frag area, and 13" between frag area and return?

Should the baffles be cut to the exact width or allow 1/8"? This is acrylic to acrylic.

Sorry for all the questions, want to do this right the first time and not mess it up.
 
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kschweer

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I would keep all baffles at the same height except the bubble trap like you said. I would go with the 3/8" acrylic personally. For "glueing" the acrylic you want a tight fit. The weld on actually bonds the 2 pieces to each other unlike silicone and glass. A tight fit is necessary for the glue to work, it is the same consistency as water so it will not work with a gap between the two pieces being glued.
 
I would keep all baffles at the same height except the bubble trap like you said. I would go with the 3/8" acrylic personally. For "glueing" the acrylic you want a tight fit. The weld on actually bonds the 2 pieces to each other unlike silicone and glass. A tight fit is necessary for the glue to work, it is the same consistency as water so it will not work with a gap between the two pieces being glued.

Great that helps a ton. I'd prefer 3/8, but the cost would be really high since I need 13 x 15. Over 200 just for the baffles. (tank only cost $150...lol). Can I get away with the Weldon 16 for the baffles since I ordered it for the seam repair or do I need the Weld on 3?
 

kschweer

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Great that helps a ton. I'd prefer 3/8, but the cost would be really high since I need 13 x 15. Over 200 just for the baffles. (tank only cost $150...lol). Can I get away with the Weldon 16 for the baffles since I ordered it for the seam repair or do I need the Weld on 3?

May I ask where you're getting the acrylic?
 

kschweer

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I would shop around a bit. Seems pretty high to me. I know a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4 inch is a little less than $200. Try calling everything plastic and off shore glass and plastic. For reference I paid $37 for 4 sq feet of 1/4" for my sump.
 
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