fatoldsun
NJRC Member
Given all the problems that have come up in the last 2 weeks (plus today's storm and this winter's projections) and given the fact that I can’t get a coral to grow to save my life (so I have nothing really to contribute in the recovery efforts of those who have lost stuff) I thought I’d add what ever $0.02 I could offer. I believe I found a way to make a backup that will cover you for 24-36 hours with little more than a $2 cable from EcoTech and any 12V car battery…
Over the summer I bought a used (older model) EcoTech battery backup. It was one of the “IceCap” models. Ecotech recalled these or more specifically, the cable that goes between the battery pack and the unit’s controller. The result of the recall was to issue a simple replacement cable with an in-line fuse. EcoTech sells them for under $5.oo and sends them with reduced cost shipping so really I think 1 cable will be under $5 total. (note if you want to make multiple emergency back-ups running off a single battery you can but you need multiple cables). That was lesson 1– basically there is a good supply of these cables and they take all of the mystery out of trying to DIY a battery back-up. The next thing I learned was that there is nothing (I mean NOTHING) to my backup other than a white metal case, 4 rivets and a 12V battery. In the case of what they gave you in the IceCap version it was an 18.0 Amp hour battery. Lesson 2 – any car battery with a charge should do – the bigger the battery the longer your DC powered pumps will run. Essentially (as I understand it) the brick that sits between the AC power source and the controller is a transformer – just like any PC/computer monitor, printer, etc... It simply converts from AC to DC and so a 12 volt DC battery requires no conversion, nothing fancy. All you need is a way to get the power from the battery to the controller. This cable does that for you. No searching in Radio Shack for the correct size plug
Ok, so bottom line – get yourself one (or a bunch of cables) and cut off one plug end (preferably the one with more wire after the fuse) and get some terminal but-connectors so you can hook the cable up to a battery. Now the tricky part may be getting the polarity right so you may have to do some guessing using the inline fuse as a clue (should be coming off the positive side) - check this before you use it – I got lucky but I don’t want anyone frying their controller and blaming me
Presto – a battery back up. Now getting your wife to let you pull her battery to run your pump until the power comes back on – that’s on you. On the bright side, you can pop the dead battery back in once it’s used up and jump start the car letting it run for about 30 minutes to recharge the battery off the car's alternator. I’m pretty sure that’s bad for a battery but these are desperate times. Or you could keep a spare battery (maybe you are lucky enough to have one for a boat or just a spare cheap battery) on a trickle charger and pull it out if/when needed. I think if I had the option of a fish room I would do one on a battery minder trickle charger and leave it hooked up instead of the EcoTeck option. I guess if you have their lights this would work on those too
I’m not sure why a larger version of the backup isn’t sold – I guess just weight and how unsightly it would be but in a jam, this should cover you. Now if someone can tell me how to run my heater off DC I wouldn’t be worried about any of these storms. I don't want EcoTech making a DC heater that costs $200 so I'll try to come up with something else there
Hope this helps someone.
here’s a link to the DIY thread with pics and such on RC - if that’s permissible here
Over the summer I bought a used (older model) EcoTech battery backup. It was one of the “IceCap” models. Ecotech recalled these or more specifically, the cable that goes between the battery pack and the unit’s controller. The result of the recall was to issue a simple replacement cable with an in-line fuse. EcoTech sells them for under $5.oo and sends them with reduced cost shipping so really I think 1 cable will be under $5 total. (note if you want to make multiple emergency back-ups running off a single battery you can but you need multiple cables). That was lesson 1– basically there is a good supply of these cables and they take all of the mystery out of trying to DIY a battery back-up. The next thing I learned was that there is nothing (I mean NOTHING) to my backup other than a white metal case, 4 rivets and a 12V battery. In the case of what they gave you in the IceCap version it was an 18.0 Amp hour battery. Lesson 2 – any car battery with a charge should do – the bigger the battery the longer your DC powered pumps will run. Essentially (as I understand it) the brick that sits between the AC power source and the controller is a transformer – just like any PC/computer monitor, printer, etc... It simply converts from AC to DC and so a 12 volt DC battery requires no conversion, nothing fancy. All you need is a way to get the power from the battery to the controller. This cable does that for you. No searching in Radio Shack for the correct size plug
Ok, so bottom line – get yourself one (or a bunch of cables) and cut off one plug end (preferably the one with more wire after the fuse) and get some terminal but-connectors so you can hook the cable up to a battery. Now the tricky part may be getting the polarity right so you may have to do some guessing using the inline fuse as a clue (should be coming off the positive side) - check this before you use it – I got lucky but I don’t want anyone frying their controller and blaming me
Presto – a battery back up. Now getting your wife to let you pull her battery to run your pump until the power comes back on – that’s on you. On the bright side, you can pop the dead battery back in once it’s used up and jump start the car letting it run for about 30 minutes to recharge the battery off the car's alternator. I’m pretty sure that’s bad for a battery but these are desperate times. Or you could keep a spare battery (maybe you are lucky enough to have one for a boat or just a spare cheap battery) on a trickle charger and pull it out if/when needed. I think if I had the option of a fish room I would do one on a battery minder trickle charger and leave it hooked up instead of the EcoTeck option. I guess if you have their lights this would work on those too
I’m not sure why a larger version of the backup isn’t sold – I guess just weight and how unsightly it would be but in a jam, this should cover you. Now if someone can tell me how to run my heater off DC I wouldn’t be worried about any of these storms. I don't want EcoTech making a DC heater that costs $200 so I'll try to come up with something else there
Hope this helps someone.
here’s a link to the DIY thread with pics and such on RC - if that’s permissible here
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