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TanksNStuff's 75G to 120G Upgrade

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
A couple months ago, I got a good deal on a 120g tank/stand which was the perfect size I was looking for. My current 75g tank is 48x18x21 and it's displayed right next to a half-wall, between the family room and the dining room. As such, it's viewable on 3 sides and the single corner overflow is ideal. I believe the 120g that I just got is the largest "standard" size with a single corner overflow, so that's why I wanted this size. The new tank dimensions are 48x24x24... about 6" wider and a few inches taller.

Anyway, with all the Frag Swap planning I was involved in and taking several weeks to work out my plans for this build, I finally had a chance to start working on it this weekend. Before I start showing my progress though, I thought I'd lay out a few of my ideas and give a general idea of where this is heading.

For starters, the stand that came with the tank was in good condition. The only issue was that my tank location (next to a half-wall) requires a taller stand so that the tank view of the back doesn't get blocked by the wall. A few people suggested just building a base platform to raise the stand, but it would need to be around 12-13" high and I thought that might look out of place or stranges. So, I spent lots of time searching all the DIY forums I could to come up with a new stand design that will work best for me. I figured this was my opportunity to improve upon as many limitations my current setup was giving me and do this "right" this time around.

Here are a few things I wanted to improve upon:
1. Move all moisture sensitive electrical components out of the sump if possible to help avoid damage.
2. More cabinet space to house all the electrical/controller equipment (including newly aquired 2-part dosers), towels, and provide easy access to: ATO container, 2-part jugs, and additional storage space for misc. chemicals/foods/nets/grabbers/etc.
3. Coat the entire inside of sump area with some sort of epoxy or waterproof material.
4. Raise the height of the stand base so that the tank glass is even level with the half-wall. (My current tank is about 2" below and although it isn't that bad... why not fix this?)
5. "Hide" the top/bottom frames of the tank so that it appears to be built into the furniture.
6. Use actual electrical conduits to run equipment wiring through in lieu of the slotted plastic wrap around kind I have now.
7. Move my BRS Dual reactor into the stand and mount it where it will be easy to remove the media canisters for replacement. This (along with my ATO container) is currently installed in a nano tank stand next to my current tank which will be replaced with the new stand/cabinet.
8. Replace the stand doors with an easily removable front panel. It's a tight squeeze in between my tank and my couch and having it 6" closer due to a wider stand will make things worse. I plan to embed magnets on both the stand frame and the panel so that I can just pull it off for maintenance, store it out of the way temporarily, then just stick it back on when done.
9. Include a side door/panel that will allow me to slide my sump through it if needed (in case I decide to add vertical bracing in the middle). Will likely use the same magnet idea as #8.

OK, so those are the basic ideas I came up with. To give a better visual of what I'm aiming at, here's the one that I'm using as a reference for my build. I may use a different "finish" look in terms of colors and trim work and my canopy will definitely be different (almost identical to my current design) but this is the basic idea in terms of structure. I would give credit, but all I remember is that I found it on Reef Central in one of their many DIY stand build threads.

100_6511.jpg


Keep in mind that this appears to be a 6' long tank, so try to visualize this as being only 2 door panels long. My tall side cabinet will be 26" wide whereas my stand will be 48 1/2"... so it will look like 3 equal sized sections along the bottom.

All right, that's my planning post.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Now, here's my progress so far. I did this all by myself, except for when I attached the vertical posts where my wife held them steady while I drilled/screwed them in.

I meant to take pics at different stages (top frame, bottom frame, post installation, etc.) but I was on a roll and forgot to get the camera out. Anyway, here's what I have so far:

2012-11-25_14-40-42_875.jpg


2012-11-25_14-40-52_882.jpg


I was considering adding another vertical brace in the back/middle and possibly one more in the front/middle... but not sure if it's really needed. Any thoughts?

Another thought I had was adding a diagonal brace along the back to help prevent it from racking. Will this be necessary if I use 3/4" plywood as a skin? I was thinking I would just cover the entire back with a solid piece and cut out for wiring as needed.

Well, that's all I have for now. My next step will be building the frame for the canopy. I was going to make the tall side cabinet next, but decided I should make the canopy first, then setup the stand/tank/canopy to make sure my height measurements were correct to make sure everything matches.

Stay tuned!
 
Good start George. While i love my 90, I really wish i listened to People that suggested the 120. That extra 6" right now would make a huge difference. Can't wait to see this come together. I like the cabinet your following as well. When you posted that it got my wheels turning. Hope you don't mind but I might have to add a similar side cabinet to mine as well. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
 
Wow, George. Saying I am impressed seems so insufficient. I can't wait to see the end product, it looks like you have a great plan for your build to me!
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Thanks everyone. I hope it turns out looking as nice as the one I'm basing it off of, lol.

John, I've borrowed almost all of my ideas, so feel free to do the same. ;)

I haven't had a chance to do anything more yet due to the weather. However, I am reconsidering the "magnet" idea for the stand front panel. I saw what dan_k did in his 75g ToTT thread (using brackets made to hang heavy pictures) and I like that idea much better.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
George, looking real good. I always like seeing actual build pictures, so keep the pictures coming.

My comments have to do with the build instructions on RC. The stand plans they have show four more “legs” on each of end portions of the stand. Here’s the picture showing the additional end legs:

Stand.jpg



They also stated in this thread that four foot tanks only require 2 x 4’s, with no middle bracing, so middle braces aren’t necessary.

I used this same plan for my five foot tank, with the exception of the top braces being 2 x 6’s. When done you will find that you’ll need a crane to move it….weighs a ton!

IMG_3368.jpg
 
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TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Thanks Paul. The design I used didn't show those extra posts on the corners, but I could easily add them in just to be safe. Also, looking at yours versus mine, I noticed that I didn't add the one cross brace in the center. I knew I had an extra piece of wood cut for some reason. :eek:

I'll add all that over the weekend and post an updated photo.
 
George make sure that the extra 2 by 4s do not interfere with your bulkheads because you have a corner overflow, just my two cents.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Yea, I already considered that when I started planning the frame. The extra 2x4s that I add will be vertical, between the top/bottom frames, and be on the outside of the 24" sides. They will squeeze in on the left/right sides, right at my pencil marks in this pic, so that won't interfere with the bulkheads at all....

2012-11-25_14-40-52_882.jpg
 

falconut

NJRC Member
Looking real good. My 90 sits on the same frame design with a 2x6 top, like Paul's. These builds seem much stronger than the factory stands.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Yea, the factory stand that came with the tank was basically a 3/4" plywood shell, so I'm pretty sure this 2x4 design will be more than strong enough.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Thanks Tony, Craig, Sunny, and everyone else following along. Unfortunately, my weekend turned out to be much busier than I expected so I didn't get much progress done. It's a shame too because the weather was beautiful. :(

I was able to add on the 4 extra outside vertical posts as Paul suggested, and I also added the center cross brace and a center vertical brace on the back wall. I'm not putting one in the front so I have a large open access to my sump and equipment.

I was also able to cut all my wood for my canopy frame. I put the top and bottom frames of the canopy together too... so the next opportunity I have to work on it I should be able to complete the canopy frame. The canopy was done in 1x2's instead of 2x4s because it's lighter, cheaper, and it worked perfectly for the one I made for my current 75g tank.

Sorry, no pics to post yet. I'll try to get a couple tonight.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Well, what's a year between friends, eh? Wow, I knew it's been a while since I updated this thread, but didn't realize it was that long!

Anyway, It's been extremely busy for me this past year since I became President of this club. Not using that as a complete excuse, but I admit it has taken quite a bit of my spare time and has severely limited my time for personal things such as my upgrade build. Still, I've managed to do some more work sporadically and I think I'm pretty close to being ready to do the change over. I still have to stain and attach all my trim work to all the furniture and apply an elastomeric waterproofing membrane called RedGard to the bottom areas... but that should happen soon enough.

I'll get into the furniture building stuff in my next post(s) but in the meantime, here are some updates and photos of my new sump.

New Sump - While planning for my upgrade, I decided that since I was making a larger stand and a side cabinet to hold most of the things I usually keep under my current stand... I may as well make a larger sump to utilize the extra space. So, I picked up a 40 breeder tank from PETCO during their $1 / gallon sale and then bought some 1/4" acrylic from Lowes for the baffles. As far as design, I stuck with my current setup of skimmer/fuge/bubble trap/return. I also decided that only 2 baffles were really needed to make the bubble trap as I've seen others done this way and it worked. So, let's talk about the progress on the sump:

I began by drawing my guide lines on the outside of the tank with a sharpie, a square, and a straight edge at the measured locations. Then, to help me make the silicone lines as neat as possible, I first cut a piece of 1x2 so that it would fit between the top and bottom frame. Then I made a line down the center of the 1x2 so that I had a 1/2" on each side of the sharpie line. I put the 1x2 guide board inside so that the lines matched up, and braced it into place with some other scrap pieces of wood. Once this was done, I applied blue painters tape on each side of the board (inside the glass). I did this on both sides of the guide board, and then a small filler piece at the top to connect the 2 edge lines. Whenever the edges met the bottom of the tank, I just ran it a bit longer to give me an ending point for the bottom tape lines. I did this on both sides of the tank for each baffle wall. Finally, I ran tape strips across the bottom to match up with the runover edges from the sides. This gave me some nice clean boundaries for all my silicone applications. Some pics to show all of this...

_MG_0841.jpg _MG_0842.jpg _MG_0843.jpg _MG_0844.jpg IMG_0848.jpg IMG_0849.jpg IMG_0850.jpg IMG_0851.jpg

The last few pics show the baffles in place (unglued) just to get an idea of how they will look when complete. You may also have noticed the baffles all have a whitish etching look to them around the edges. I did this on purpose to try to give the acrylic a rough surface for the silicone to grip to. In order to get this etching, I used a dremel with a sandpaper wheel and just sort of made figure 8 patterns. As the wheel turned, it would heat up and the acrylic actually raised in some spots and made grooves in others. Also, while doing this etching work, I rounded off the corners that were going to hit the bottom of the sump. This made them fit in better against the silicone seams of the tank itself. Here are a couple closeup pics of the etching work:

_MG_0845.jpg IMG_0846.jpg IMG_0847.jpg

OK, now I'm ready to glue these babies into place. I've seen many sump build threads in the past and saw some pretty good ideas on how to brace the baffles while they get glued in. But, since I had all this 1x2 scrap laying around, I decided to make sort of a template that would hold all of them into place. To make the template, I measured the distance between the 2 baffles that were going to touch bottom and then made notches in two pieces of scrap at the same distance. I then attached a cross brace using screws to turn these into what I would describe as a marionette's puppet controller. This basically allowed me to slide the 4 notches over the 2 pieces of acrylic, and brace the top ends of the baffles at a fixed location. As I did this, I realized that this put pressure on the top and the bottom edges were getting pushed off the mark. So, I made spacers for the bottom ends to keep those spaced evenly too. Also, in order to keep the ends of the spacers out of the silicone that would run along the bottom of the baffles... I raised the spacers with a small block underneath them. This setup enabled me to brace these 2 baffles in their fixed locations, but the last trick was to brace the template against a fixed surface. First, some pics of this stuff and then I'll explain how I resolved that part:

IMG_0855.jpg IMG_0861.jpg

I decided that I would attach the raised bubble trap baffle into place by itself first (since it's easier to do one of them first and have easy access to both sides of the baffle) with the silicone. I also considered the fact that this one was going to be attached on only the side edges and not the bottom, so this would be the most important one to get a solid bead on. So, I attached that one by itself, then, I waited 48 hours to make sure it was dry and solidly in place. Once it was, I placed another spacer scrap board (vertically) against that first baffle (actually ended up using 2 instead of one although you can't tell from the pics) and then put the next bubble trap baffle against them on the marks and used a clamp to hold that in place. Also I should note that these were not set on the bottom either as that would hinder the silicone placement for the bottom edge. Lastly, I put in the skimmer/fuge baffle and slid the template over both baffles and then the bottom spacers to line everything up. To give me a little extra insurance, I used some painters tape to brace the baffles to the tank itself and to the first fixed baffle. This setup kept everything in it's place while applying the silicone. A few pics of this stuff:

IMG_0857.jpg IMG_0861.jpg IMG_0864.jpg

Applying the silicone - Well, I actually didn't use silicone. I used a product called E-6000 which is a reef-safe industrial adhesive. I'd describe it as sort of silicone mixed with super glue gel. And, to get it into those tough to reach areas around all those templates, blocks, and baffles... I cut a piece of tubing and tie-strapped it to an acrylic rod. This gave me a way to squirt it through the tubing and a good rigid handle to guide it. This did waste a lot of E-6000, but it did allow me to apply it where I couldn't get my hands into. I only needed this for the inside edge of that 2nd bubble trap baffle. When I needed to do the bottom edge on that side, I just went underneath the raised baffle. Couple shots of the adhesive and the tubing thingy:

IMG_0856.jpg IMG_0859.jpg IMG_0860.jpg

In conclusion, I'm quite happy with how it turned out. I did end up doing a water test after everything dried and there was some slight leakage between baffles. I fixed them by adding more E-6000 on top of all the areas that showed a leak. Unfortunately though, this was after I had removed the blue painters tape so in the end the seams turned out to be not as neat as I had planned. It's a sump though and I'm not really that concerned about how it looks. The important part is it's functional and done! Here are a couple shots of the finished product:

IMG_0949.jpg IMG_0950.jpg

That's it for this intallment. Next one will show some progress on the furniture build.
 
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