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True union ball valves

Hallowhead

NJRC Member
Anyone have an experience with these leaking on new installs and have tips to fix?

I bought 4 from supply house instead of the cheap home Depot ones. Glued them all in place tightened the crap out of them with a large wrench and they leaked at the threads. Tightened them further and they continued to leak.

Removed the valve and cleaned the gaskets and seats and cranked them back down and they continued to leak.

Got supply house to send 4 replacements but nervous they'll leak too
 

horseplay

NJRC Member
I have silicone grease for my dive equipment from dive shop. I remember someone said Vaseline works too. Google should not be hard to find
 

Hallowhead

NJRC Member
I have silicone grease for my dive equipment from dive shop. I remember someone said Vaseline works too. Google should not be hard to find
Vaseline contains petroleum and should NOT be used in reef tanks.

I will grab a tube of this stuff tonight ahead of replacements tomorrow.

Thanks!
 
food-grade vegetable glycerin. This is what I use on my Mp10 shafts to lube them after I clean them. No issues and can be picked up at Michaels by their bakery items.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Agree, hand tightening should be enough.

Definitely NOT vaseline.

From HD, plumber's grease as long as it's silicone based. I personally use Leslie's Pool Lube....one tube is a lifetime supply.Leslies Pool and Spa Lube.jpg
 

Hallowhead

NJRC Member
So I used silicone plumbers grease.. they didn't leak for a whole 5 seconds and than poured out.

I realized that the PVC wasn't sitting perfect and figured this has to be it.... Made sure everything sat perfect - re did all my pipe clamps and applied MORE grease. Still leaked. At this point I have had to have crushed the o ring when I initially cranked them down. Hoping tomorrow is better news with the new ones.

Here is a photo
 

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You could replace just the o-rings and see if that works.
The first time you connected it, did you force it closed or did it screw in without resistance?
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Now seeing this picture, here's my guess....your O-rings are just fine. I think your mating surfaces of the union aren't sitting flush. The reason is all that rigid pipe AND what appears to be a metal strap/clamp just below the valve. This clamp could be torquing the alignment of the union joints.

Is just one side leaking? If so, undo both sides and first install the leaking side first. Then do the other side. The idea here is that if there isn't perfect seating of the two faces, by tightening the leaking side first, this side will now be aligned. That said, what you might find is that now the other side is leaking.

If you still think the O-Rings are shot, simply buy new O-rings.
 

Hallowhead

NJRC Member
Now seeing this picture, here's my guess....your O-rings are just fine. I think your mating surfaces of the union aren't sitting flush. The reason is all that rigid pipe AND what appears to be a metal strap/clamp just below the valve. This clamp could be torquing the alignment of the union joints.

Is just one side leaking? If so, undo both sides and first install the leaking side first. Then do the other side. The idea here is that if there isn't perfect seating of the two faces, by tightening the leaking side first, this side will now be aligned. That said, what you might find is that now the other side is leaking.

If you still think the O-Rings are shot, simply buy new O-rings.
Have new o rings tomorrow. I do think it is playing into it. I removed all clamps and it definitely leaked less. Which makes me think new o rings and grease will be golden
 
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