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Twan's NanoCustoms 3.24 12g

Phyl

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Your orange cap looks GREAT! It's really colored up nicely since your last pictures. You could probably move it up in the tank now that it is acclimated, if you wanted to change its location.

Looks like that GSP is growing really well (too well?! LOL). You should be able to remove it from the rocks in a sheet, if you wanted to trim/frag it.
 
Woohoo. Looking good twan.. Looking good.. Here is a tidbit of information I got from wetwebmedia. You might find the lighting of a nano interesting.. Keep up the great work and thanks for the photos. Love the photos!

To WetWebMedia - responses are in brackets inside the questions.

MH Lighting on Nano 11/30/07
Hello there everyone,
<Hello, Scott V. here.>
Quick questions about lighting. I have a 12 gallon AP that is modded with a chiller, has 24 lbs of live rock in it and used to use stock lighting of 54w PC's.
http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o46/mynd/AquaPod/PB270009.jpg - tank I have recently upgraded to the Coralife 24" 150w MH with Dual 65w 03 actinics and moonlights. I run the actinics 10 hours a day and the MH's 6 with a pre 2 hour and post 2 hour actinic sunrise.
<8-12 hours a day (probably on the lesser side here) would be preferable with the halide, with actinics one hour before/after.> Moonlights are on for the other 14 hours. I know they say that you should have at least 3 – 6 watts per gallon on your tank in lighting. My first question is as follows.
Is the equation for that as easy as taking total wattage 280w and dividing it by the amount of water ( 10 ) gallons in your tank? Meaning I would have 28w per gallon?
<First of all, I would not factor in the actinics, leaving you with a mere 15 watts per gallon! Small tanks like this are where the watts per gallon rule really lacks. If you follow 5 watts per gallon, this leaves you with 50. This may be adequate for mushrooms but any more light intensive corals will suffer, the intensity is just not there towards the bottom two thirds of the tank. I personally think your light is a good choice considering that you have a chiller.> I currently have the lighting fixture 12 inches above the tank and it is 21 inches to the bottom of the tank from the light. What do you think the optimal amount of inches from the top of the tank would be so that I could get optimal results / color / growth for my mushrooms, zoa's, palys and acans along with a small piece of hydno. The hydno is at the top of the tank about 14 inches from the light and doing well. The MH's are 14k.
<21” from light to the bottom of your tank is just right for your light.> I have no desire to do SPS but might consider a maxima 1" clam in the future.
<Maximas this small are fairly delicate and tanks this small are inherently unstable. In addition the clam will outgrow this tank. I would leave the Maxima out of the equation and concentrate on growing out the frags you currently have.> I would think with this lighting that there is really nothing I can't put in there within reason.
<Yes, the lighting could, stability in the other parameters and room will be the problem.> Currently the corals are frags and growing so I am not overstocked. What are your recommendations for the above mentioned? I enjoy commentary so throw in anything you think is relevant.
Thanks!
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>

What do you make of it :) I finally figured out what I thought they were saying.. How's bout you?
 
Phyl said:
Your orange cap looks GREAT! It's really colored up nicely since your last pictures. You could probably move it up in the tank now that it is acclimated, if you wanted to change its location.
Yeah it's doing really good. Lets look at before and after side by side:
cap9407dq3.jpg
120407capop3.jpg


Phyl said:
Looks like that GSP is growing really well (too well?! LOL). You should be able to remove it from the rocks in a sheet, if you wanted to trim/frag it.

The rock that is behind the cap is full of GSP and purple mushrooms. I moved it slighty so now there are no other rocks that touch it. I figure let it go nutz over there and frag as needed and not have to worry about it taking over other rockwork.
 
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