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45 Gallon Custom Marinland Cube Tank Build

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Wow, they are upgradeable/expandable? That's a cool feature. Does this come with some sort of controller to handle the dimming and stuff?
 
It does come with a controller and is also controlled by profilux controllers too.

Yes if you move onto a bigger tank all you need a another module they are inter linked.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Never mind. I just researched that thing myself. Very nice piece of equipment, but man those are expensive!

I'm sure in the long run it will even out, but that will make a big dent in your wallet. I guess the 12" is reasonable at around $700, but I'd need a 48" which is around $2,500.00! No chance I'm getting one unless I get a big bonus or win the lottery, lol.
 
(I just found out as well that the initial cost is going to be lowered 10 percent per fixture.

For me a 24 inch = the custom 8 bulb 24inch t-5 fixture with bulbs. After a year i will have spent as much as the t-5 as i did with the LED and i will still need to buy more bulbs.
 

mnat

Officer Emeritus
Staff member
Moderator
If you can wait (and I know I can't) I believe the next group buy in January is Premium Aquatics so you could save an extra 15%. I know that is a lot to ask to wait 2.5 months, I am chomping at the bit to setup my tank in a few weeks.
 
I called premium to see if could order them under a group buy and they said no as of now. These units are expensive and have been in production for two years and are fully licsenced to use the LED Patent from the company that shut down PFO.

From what i have learned PFO has soooo many problems with the units that it became to expensive. Some companys even made retro fits for the units and reaized the retro fits for solaris would could almost 10 - 15 percent more then a new unit.

They also offer the unit with legs and the fact that i can hook up my tunze 6055 nanostreams to the profilux controller and the light unit is a major plus on cord mess and electricity.

Who doesnt think that a passing storm is a cool feature. I wish i could correspond my top off with a coming storm out of like a spray bar over the tank.
 
I took as stab at some plumbing ::)
Here are some pics and a movie
IMG_2670.jpg

IMG_2672.jpg

IMG_2671.jpg

IMG_2673.jpg


 
Custom King from Manhattan Reefs.


My bulkheads are still leaking, its coming from the bulkhead where you screw them together. Its wierd.
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I think you are confusing a bulkhead with a union. The picture you show is a union. First make sure the rubber o-ring is in there. Also make sure the flat mating surfaces are clean. I also coat the o-ring with a plumber’s grease or pool lube. These are non-petroleum base lubricants that help to preserve the rubber and give you a good seal.
 
Hey Red fish im not confused, i was just showing my plumbing off, the water is dripping down from the bulkheads to the union valve and that 90 degree elbow.
;D
 
How about the ever popular teflon tape?

What does the pipe look like that goes into the filter sock. Does it have some sort of holes in it? The froth gets out of hand it can really get a lot of salt creap.
 

TanksNStuff

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
Just asking the obvious, just in case... Did you put the gasket on the inside the tank (wet side) ?

What kind of connection do you have from the white PVC to the bulkhead? Where is the water leaking? From around the bulkhead (at the glass) or from inside the bulkhead, along the white pvc?

By looking at the first pic after your video, it looks like you have a male, threaded bulkhead (assuming the black threaded pipe is the bulkhead), and you have a plain piece of pipe glued inside of it. Is that the case? You should have an adapter to go from threaded to slip connection. They make female fpt x slip unions also, which is probably a better way to go. An adapter or union should stop any leaking that might be coming from the inside.

If water is leaking through the glass, around the bulkhead, then you are not tight enough or the bulkhead is too small for the hole. Is there any "play" around the bulkhead as it goes through the hole in the glass?

Can you show us a closup pic, looking up at the bulkhead coming throught the tank?
 

redfishbluefish

Officer Emeritus
Officer Emeritus
I don’t know, I’m seeing all that purple pvc cleaner around the bulkheads. That would suggest that they are slip, not npt. Either way, you do have to be careful not to over tighten a bulkhead. That could actually cause leaking by creating fissures in the rubber seal as it “grabs” the glass and forms a slight fold (fissure). They suggest a quarter turn after hand tightening…no more. Again I will talk about plumbers grease…great stuff. Anything rubber should get a coating of this stuff. It not only assists in creating the leakproof seal, it preserves the rubber and minimizes fissure formation by lubing the glass to rubber interface. I have rubber stuff that’s more than twenty years old that looks brand new.

The other concern I would have is that all the plumbing looks like rigid piping. If there is any pressure from misalignment that is transmitted back to the bulkhead, you will get leaking from the bulkhead being torqued. Might want to put in a short section of flex in there to allow for shifting from temperature of natural movement of the various components.

Otherwise, looking good.
 
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