Okay cool, thanks again, see ya tomorrow
-
Folks, if you've recently upgraded or renewed your annual club membership but it's still not active, please reach out to the BOD or a moderator. The PayPal system has a slight bug which it doesn't allow it to activate the account on it's own.
Dan's 150 Rebuild
- Thread starter Sobo's Reef
- Start date
At my local HD they do not have John Guest fittings (or should I say they are not called John Guest.) They are simply call "quick connect" fittings.....and I think they are all made by Watts. They are in the same area as all the brass tubing fittings.
Here's what the canopy will look like on top
Do you guys think it'll be better to have the last locline section between the overflow and brace or in the right corner?
Do you guys think it'll be better to have the last locline section between the overflow and brace or in the right corner?
Well I have 3 powerheads going lol im gonna have crazy flow in this tank lol
Okay locline assembly is done. Now this is the back of the tank. 3/4" PVC is the return. Go from top to bottom do you it should look like this... Elbow, ball valve then union, or union then ball valve?
I'm gonna put the union in just for easy disassemble if necessary. The locline are going to be at the top of the water surface any ways so I figure that would be the siphon break
Quick question, do all of my locline ends need to be near the surface in order for the siphon to break? Bc some are going to be lower than the others
I believe the answer is yes. If not. The water will drain to the lowest locline
On mine I did not put in a valve.....no need. Only have a union in case I need to take it apart.
Well I wanna be able to control the flow coming out of the locline so that's why I'm installing a ball valve.
How come u have ur drains going to different places?
How come u have ur drains going to different places?
I would not recommend metering your return by simply putting a valve in the return line. Most pumps do not take kindly to being metered this way. Another way of doing this is to tee off your return line and return this to your sump. Put a valve on this tee'd off line to now meter the return without putting stress on the pump. Here's a picture and unfortunately the valve is just out of the picture to the right.
One return goes to the refugium, the other goes to my skimmer section. My Return section of my sump is in the middle of these two sections. Note in this picture I had an external skimmer which in not in the picture. However, you can see the MAG 24 that fed that skimmer. And wow, this was when the sump was new.....it sure was clean looking. Doesn't look like that now.
Ok then maybe I'll just skip the ball valve all together. No biggie. And yeah my sump for my 90 is pretty dirty now haha. So on mine, its okay that both drains just dump right into the first chamber right?
One more note as I look at this picture of my sump. If I were doing this today, I would eliminate the valves on the drain lines. I never turn them off.....just a waste. The original thought was that I'd turn them off when doing maintenance to keep water from coming down from the DT. However, after about a minute, no more water drains down after turning off the pump. Again, no valves if I ever redo this thing.....which I doubt.
I wasn't planning on doing anything like that anyways so that's fine 
so the only valves I'll have will be on my manifold
so the only valves I'll have will be on my manifold
How big is the sump? And what return pump are you using? And is there a refugium in your sump?