Dan's 150 Rebuild

[Sobo's Reef]

Sump is 40g breeder. Mag 18 is my return and yes the 2nd chamber is my fuge.

 

[redfishbluefish]

I wasn't planning on doing anything like that anyways so that's fine so the only valves I'll have will be on my manifold

Actually with a manifold, you've already "tee'd" off your return. If your return flow is too great, just direct one of the manifold tees back to the sump......you all set!

 

[Cdiggy]

I would think just one loc line would break the syphon. Once the return line starts sucking air from any one of the loclines the syphon would break as long as the main line is above water level.

 

[Sobo's Reef]

Yeah and plus the overflow box will break the siphon too once water level gets below the teeth

 

[redfishbluefish]

Yeah and plus the overflow box will break the siphon too once water level gets below the teeth

NO! The two are separate. Yes, the drain will stop once the water level in the DT hits the bottom of the teeth. However, your return line is separate from the drain and will not stop siphoning until it gets an air break. You can do that with a siphon break or keep at least one of your LocLine returns at the surface level of the DT.

 

[Cdiggy]

NO! The two are separate. Yes, the drain will stop once the water level in the DT hits the bottom of the teeth. However, your return line is separate from the drain and will not stop siphoning until it gets an air break. You can do that with a siphon break or keep at least one of your LocLine returns at the surface level of the DT.

Big +1 on that! Once pressure stops on the return line it immediately becomes a drain!!!

 

[Sobo's Reef]

Okay so as long as one of my loclines hits air I should be fine correct?

 

[redfishbluefish]

Or at least no deeper then your saw-teeth.

 

[Sobo's Reef]

Gotcha, okay cool. I'm putting all the plumbing together now. Figure I'd make it easier come moving day.

 

[Sobo's Reef]

any advice on making this sturdier? I have metal straps holding it to the frame of the stand but its still a little floppy. I understand when I attach all the plumbing it'll make it sturdier but will that be enough?

 

[redfishbluefish]

The metal strapping will not do well with the saltwater environment. I'd suggest dropping a small piece of plywood to support the manifold....using plastic conduit clamps with stainless steel screws.

 

[Sobo's Reef]

 

[Sobo's Reef]

And I guess I can ditch the metal straps, was trying to avoid putting up more wood, bc then I'd have to stain it and blah blah blah Lol

 

[redfishbluefish]

I would also add three plastic conduit clamps where I've marked your photo with the red rectangles. You may need to add wood fillers to attached the plumbing.

 

[Sobo's Reef]

Any reasoning behind it? Or just extra security?

 

[redfishbluefish]

So you don't put stress on the glass from any flexing of the pipe that may occur in the sump area. The mechanical advantage of that relatively long piece of pipe could easily crack the glass on the tank.

 

[Sobo's Reef]

Ahhh gotcha. Okay guess I have 1 more trip to Lowes to make... Grrrr...

 

[Zippy69]

That is some nice plumbing. You progress has laps around mine.lol

 

[Sobo's Reef]

That is some nice plumbing. You progress has laps around mine.lol

Thanks! Yeah well times a wasting Lol we move in 3 days!

 

[ecam]

I would also add three plastic conduit clamps where I've marked your photo with the red rectangles. You may need to add wood fillers to attached the plumbing.

Sorry. I just noticed those overflows are too straight ur gonna have Niagara Falls in your living room. You want laminar flow But a 20 degree turn on them and them comeback with an 45.