Why are you keeping all the baffles all one height there should be a drop in the baffles to get the flow moving just my two cents.
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Marks...Back to the Future..Reef Aquarium
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I'll give them a call...thanks.
I asked the same question, seems the natural overflow being pulled by the return pump and fall from the drain will keep things moving.
Definatly cheaper to buy a big sheet but you also have to have the tools to machine it properly. 5 18x18 sheets of 1/4" cost 60 bucks through delvies and they will cut them down to your exact size. Also make sure you get cell cast not extruded
Most of the quotes for a finished piece are about the same I'm noticing. delvies seems like an easy way to go or the one in Philly. I just have to figure out the layout. Thanks.
Strange that the picture disappeared from the above post...
Oh well...question time!
On my sump, I been doing some research on RC and think my sump layout might be wrong.
I was going to go drain with skimmer/refug/frag///return but I read the flow might be too much for the refug and this was the way to go:
drain with skimmer///return/frag/refug with a ball valve/pipe off the main drain to the rufuge to control flow. /=one baffle
Should the refug and frag area be reversed so pods can get back to the DT?
Baffle height is still up in the air...
Oh well...question time!
On my sump, I been doing some research on RC and think my sump layout might be wrong.
I was going to go drain with skimmer/refug/frag///return but I read the flow might be too much for the refug and this was the way to go:
drain with skimmer///return/frag/refug with a ball valve/pipe off the main drain to the rufuge to control flow. /=one baffle
Should the refug and frag area be reversed so pods can get back to the DT?
Baffle height is still up in the air...
I still see the picture.....some rocks, a heater, a blue box and a hot dog.
Hey...lol that is my best friend...
That is the heaviest rock I've ever seen...its like lead. That is supposed to be 27 lbs total, feels like 27lbs per rock...reef saver btw...
Used the Weld on 16 yesterday...did the water test today and it's working great. I'm going to use the "16" for the baffles when I figure out the skimmer and return pump.
November's Visa card bill will be dedicated to sump stand (buy a chop saw/pocket jig), baffles, skimmer and return pump...
I'm pretty sold on the BM 180 skimmer, but the return pump is proving difficult. The more I read about the DC pumps the more I'm concerned about their reliability. I want an internal pump, it needs to handle about 11ft of head, be energy efficient, and rock solid reliable. Would like about 5x capacity or 900 gph at the DT.
Was looking at the
Sicce Syncra 12 High Flow Pump, 3200gph
Any others you guys like that meet the above criteria?
Hockeynut
NJRC Member
Hey mark I wouldn't use the 16 for baffles if they are cut tight it will smear when you slide them in place and if you try to put it on after they are in place it is to thick to get all the way into the joint. Use some of the 3 I have then if you have gaps use the 16 to do a little caulk job.
+1. The 3 will make your life easier and a cleaner seam.
+1. Use the 3 first.
My low power consumption quest has led me to this skimmer. In my readings, its a little tricky to dial in, but once it gets going, the consensus is very happy. Cost about $338, using only 15w. At my JCP&L rate of .10 a kilowatt hour, we are talking $1.08 a month to operate. Will probably purchase in December.
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