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Sorry, forgot to update this, everything is sold.

i just keep mine around 78.5, i'd go a bit higher but i've always kept it there and in the summer the tank heats up to around 80-82 degrees during the day anyways, so keeping it a bit lower helps it not overheat, though i'm not sure at what temp my tank would suffer.

If you don't plan on putting anything into the tank for a while, you could always put them in there and run gfo, keep the light off. Anything dead will come off the rocks and start the cycle, gfo will keep the phosphate down and the rest will be up to the bacteria when it starts growing.

garbage can with a power head and water changes or an acid bath.

If it's dry bleached rock, there shouldn't really be a nitrate or phosphate issue with it, it would be the same as putting a sponge in your sump in order to get it ready for a quarantine tank. If it's dried rock from a previous tank that has stuff on it, then yes, i could see that issue happening.

Would help with a quicker cycle or no cycle at all, depending on the amount of rock you put in there and how long you leave it in, i would say 3-4 weeks.

Reefabout uses three hydra's over his tank, at least i think it's 3, might be 4, i think its around 6 feet long and 2 wide, not sure the depth, but his coloring and growth are amazing, maybe he could give you the numbers he uses on his programming to try out before you give it up?

I have an 8 bulb over a 27 inch deep tank, works great, I have 150 par on the sand bed, 350 on the top rocks that are halfway up the tank, it hangs about 14 inches above the tank.

This sounds about right, a while back I lost my job, my car was then hit while parked, and on the way home I got a ticket for running what I thought was a yellow light, they said it was red.

You can hook up something like a brs dosing pump to it, and make sure you can have a port that can handle low voltage off on cycles without getting stuck in the on position, and you just set it to turn on for a set amount of time, i still have a few dosing pumps this way. Their other pump is...

well, the cost is high for me, lol. The programming for pump on off cycles for dosing pumps besides the DOS unit can be difficult until you really understand it, i just used an online calculator for it. There's not much you can't program into it. I could fully automate my system so all i would...

Well, if i had the knowhow i'd be building a controller just for the fun of it, but my view from an apex owner standpoint, njtiger hit a lot on it with the clean loon as well as how the outlets work. I'm a big fan of it, i control what happens and when, the biggest bonus for me is the...

Sorry to hear that, it's one of the reasons my kalk is hooked up to a doser though, instead of the top off. I really don't like leaving anything to chance, i dose about 600ml of fully saturated kalk and use 2 part for the difference, if you still want to dose some kalk this might be an option...

Toss it, I had a cheap wave maker that did the same thing before.

On that small of a tank, you'll want a sump, i would say drill it, equipment will wind up taking a lot of room in the display. Sump can also increase your water volume and help with stability. Depends on the coral as far as lighting goes, and a budget.

No need to stress over which ones then, i'll just stop by and pick a few out.

I call dibs on the sps then.

Leopard wrasse are on my list as well. Love those fish.

I would begin with the tank, i'm sure there are plenty of shops out there that will do a custom oval, it will not be cheap though. 2 feet deep would be enough for them, as long as the tank is large enough for them to roam about in. I'm not sure the size of a leopard shark, but i would want a...