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Dan's 150 Rebuild
- Thread starter Sobo's Reef
- Start date
I have a aqueon HOB filter BNIB so I'll just use that, thanks anyways man.
For the hospital tank bare bottom with some PVC to give your fish a place to hide you can use your old tank water that would be good so that fish will stress out less. Medicate or use hypo. Temp I have seen run it higher than usual and lower. Positives and negatives for both. Suggestion keep it the same as your tank. One less then to adjust to.
Bare bottom lets you siphon out poop and stuff easier. Don't keep using tank water after first day. Suggest small water changes daily if you can. Make sure you don't have toxic build up with ammonia etc. I always like to test to make sure my parameters stay OK, even those cheep test strips or ammonia badges help. Remember your tank won't have time to build up a healthy bacteria filter so you have to help.
Oh and listen to Matte about leaving tank without fish for 6 weeks at least.
Bare bottom lets you siphon out poop and stuff easier. Don't keep using tank water after first day. Suggest small water changes daily if you can. Make sure you don't have toxic build up with ammonia etc. I always like to test to make sure my parameters stay OK, even those cheep test strips or ammonia badges help. Remember your tank won't have time to build up a healthy bacteria filter so you have to help.
Oh and listen to Matte about leaving tank without fish for 6 weeks at least.
Yeah I just read about that. Ugh I'm really about to just let it run its course, I cant have a 40B on the floor for 5-6 weeks with 2 cats running around getting curious. Plus catching all these fish? I mind as well take out all my rock AGAIN. This sucks.
No I understand that, that's what I meant by leaving them in a hospital tank for 5-6 weeks. I can already hear my gf yelling at me
What everyone said is definitely the "correct" way of treating the ick but when i had it I fed heavy with garlicky foods and everyone cleared up except the originator who died. Again I know thats not the best way at all and I most likely got lucky lol but its the simplest.
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And that's what I was planning on doing but not sure if it'll help.
Let's say I let this tank run its course. If all the fish died and I let the tank sit for a several weeks, that would kill the ICH right? Or would I have to do something else to the tank?
Now let's say I let it run its course and some of the fish died and some lived and looked healthy. ICH will always be lingering right?
Now let's say I let it run its course and some of the fish died and some lived and looked healthy. ICH will always be lingering right?
Your right on both accounts.
The tank will always have ich as long as there is even one fish no matter how big. I remember Sunny had an issue a few years ago where he had all his fish in QT and treatment for a long time. Put them all back and had ich again. Then he realized there must be a fish somewhere. He found it in his skimmer.
No if everything died then you would have to go fish less for a while. Done say 6 weeks but I've read longer. Then ich would be eradicated from the system. Now when you add fish again you run the risk of re-introducing it unless you treat all new additions.
The tank will always have ich as long as there is even one fish no matter how big. I remember Sunny had an issue a few years ago where he had all his fish in QT and treatment for a long time. Put them all back and had ich again. Then he realized there must be a fish somewhere. He found it in his skimmer.
No if everything died then you would have to go fish less for a while. Done say 6 weeks but I've read longer. Then ich would be eradicated from the system. Now when you add fish again you run the risk of re-introducing it unless you treat all new additions.
Yeah this may be my only option unfortunately :/ I guess I'll see how this goes for a lil while and go from there. And if my gf allows it, maybe I'll set up a qt tank in her office upstairs, this way its out of the way and it won't be on the floor.
Dan,
You are already in blackwood NJ. I stopped that 6 to 8 week BS for Ich. In your main display... sure.... your going to be down and out for a while if you have a lot of corals. But for the qurantine tank i would suggest you use CRYPTO PRO. Aquarium Center carries it near you... and it works very well. 2 7 Day Treatments will destroy the ich and not your livestock.
As for the main tank if you can remove the corals and the chaeto for a week you can run crypto through your big tank leaving the rock work alone. I purposely decided to STOCK my tank with fish before I began really adding corals for JUST such an occasion.
You are already in blackwood NJ. I stopped that 6 to 8 week BS for Ich. In your main display... sure.... your going to be down and out for a while if you have a lot of corals. But for the qurantine tank i would suggest you use CRYPTO PRO. Aquarium Center carries it near you... and it works very well. 2 7 Day Treatments will destroy the ich and not your livestock.
As for the main tank if you can remove the corals and the chaeto for a week you can run crypto through your big tank leaving the rock work alone. I purposely decided to STOCK my tank with fish before I began really adding corals for JUST such an occasion.
Remove the coral??? Ugh the last thing I wanna hear Lol I can't take anymore moving... Looks like the frag tank is going up sooner than later. What about my inverts? Will crypto hurt them?
If I go this route, it should be about 3-4 weeks until everything should be okay right?
If I go this route, it should be about 3-4 weeks until everything should be okay right?
Well heres the thing, Crypto wont hurt your bio filter THAT BAD.... It will kill off macro algae and will harm some inverts. SO if you get that frag tank up and going you can drop the inverts in there with the coral. Then treat the display with crypto. It breaks down VERY FAST under bright light and is easily removed with carbon. A 25% water change will pretty much render the stuff useless for killing your inverts. I suggest 2/3 water changes until about 50/60% of the water has been removed while running carbon on the tanks 24/7. It dosen't bind to rock or sand so its easy to remove. (MIX IT WITH HOT WATER then add cool water to it) makes it mix 100% clear. It's not painful on fish either. 14 Days if you Treat your fish and your tank at the same time. And you should be ICH free. Give another week of water changes and you should be ready to move back in the verts and fish. BTW...
You know the really thin plexiglass that you can find at Lowes.. SUPER CHEAP.. Well.. IT MAKES an AWESOME tank divider. I used it like an invisible wall to catch all of my fish in my tank. And prevent them from swimming throug the rocks lol. Just Trapped them all near the front of the glass and went in with a big net
You know the really thin plexiglass that you can find at Lowes.. SUPER CHEAP.. Well.. IT MAKES an AWESOME tank divider. I used it like an invisible wall to catch all of my fish in my tank. And prevent them from swimming throug the rocks lol. Just Trapped them all near the front of the glass and went in with a big net
Okay kind of confusing with the instructions but I think I got it. Just add it in the tank and do water changes basically? And yeah I have a feeling I'll be shredding thru this tank anyways to get the fish, mind as well just get it over with right?
The way I would go about it.
Setup your frag tank get it lit or use the light from your display. You won't need light on your display for the next 14 days.
If you CHOOSE to treat your fish in a seperate quarantine tank then thats your choice. I would treat them in the display.
Remove your Corals/Inverts to the Frag Tank.
A 5 gallon bucket with a light can take care of your macro alge for a few months. (I know from experience)
If you choose to treat in your display. Go by the volume of your tank. Don't bother so much about the Rock or the Sand. Go by your Tank + Sump.
Turn off your Carbon
Turn off your Skimmer
Ignore the directions on the Box.
Dose 1/4tsp (4 of th 1/8th tsp) that they give you) per 10 Gallons in your tank.
Use HOT WATER when mixing the powder (its like confectionary sugar) and mixt it well until its completely dissolved. Then Add cold RODI water to it to cool it down.
Add it to your tank. Turn off your lights.
Every day twice a day turn on your lights for as long as it takes your fish to eat their 2 meals a day.
After 7 Full Days. Do a Water change (25 - 50%) and Re-Dose. Wait 7 more days. And you should be ich free.
The National Fish Pharm's number is very helpful in reccomending a treatment solution for your tank volume. I have had incredible success with crypto-pro. I would also reccomend lowering your display tanks salinity to the Teens. I went down to 1.015. This was to increase the oxygen in the water. I also ran my temperature a little higher around 82 degrees.
Setup your frag tank get it lit or use the light from your display. You won't need light on your display for the next 14 days.
If you CHOOSE to treat your fish in a seperate quarantine tank then thats your choice. I would treat them in the display.
Remove your Corals/Inverts to the Frag Tank.
A 5 gallon bucket with a light can take care of your macro alge for a few months. (I know from experience)
If you choose to treat in your display. Go by the volume of your tank. Don't bother so much about the Rock or the Sand. Go by your Tank + Sump.
Turn off your Carbon
Turn off your Skimmer
Ignore the directions on the Box.
Dose 1/4tsp (4 of th 1/8th tsp) that they give you) per 10 Gallons in your tank.
Use HOT WATER when mixing the powder (its like confectionary sugar) and mixt it well until its completely dissolved. Then Add cold RODI water to it to cool it down.
Add it to your tank. Turn off your lights.
Every day twice a day turn on your lights for as long as it takes your fish to eat their 2 meals a day.
After 7 Full Days. Do a Water change (25 - 50%) and Re-Dose. Wait 7 more days. And you should be ich free.
The National Fish Pharm's number is very helpful in reccomending a treatment solution for your tank volume. I have had incredible success with crypto-pro. I would also reccomend lowering your display tanks salinity to the Teens. I went down to 1.015. This was to increase the oxygen in the water. I also ran my temperature a little higher around 82 degrees.
Okay what if I chose not to lower my salinity? Does that play a big factor in curing this?
And does anyone agree with this? Not knocking you, I just don't wanna start something just to find out it did absolutely nothing lol
And does anyone agree with this? Not knocking you, I just don't wanna start something just to find out it did absolutely nothing lol