momof6kids
NJRC Member
Wendy, Sorry to hear this. :'( Hope the ich clears up soon.
Your pictures are amazing.
Erna
Your pictures are amazing.
Erna
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It has arrived.............. OMG, this is scary
- Thread starter JerseyWendy
- Start date
Thank you all so much for the support.
Phyl, I'm following your advice and will gradually LOWER the temperature. Don't ask me why, but I was under the impression if I raise the temperature the trophonts would detach from the fish quicker. ??? Of course it makes perfect sense that if they fall off quicker, they'll be reproducing quicker as well. Stupid me.
Yes, I am feeding quite frequently and the food is always soaked with Selcon and fresh garlic.
The parasitic stage is said to last from 3-7 days, so I'll have a few more days to worry. Then in a month or so I'll see how badly it comes back.
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Wendy
Phyl, I'm following your advice and will gradually LOWER the temperature. Don't ask me why, but I was under the impression if I raise the temperature the trophonts would detach from the fish quicker. ??? Of course it makes perfect sense that if they fall off quicker, they'll be reproducing quicker as well. Stupid me.
Yes, I am feeding quite frequently and the food is always soaked with Selcon and fresh garlic.
The parasitic stage is said to last from 3-7 days, so I'll have a few more days to worry. Then in a month or so I'll see how badly it comes back.
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Wendy
If you get through the next two weeks I wouldn't worry about next month (unless there's a new stress event). I would not add any new fish for the next few months (obviously). When we had ich our fish was in a Hypo QT. It seemed that every 16-24 hrs there was a lull in the visible outbreak and then it would get worse again, sort of like a tidal surge. The fish got so bad I nearly fresh water dipped it! Right after that things got dramatically better. But he was in QT at the time, not in the display.
As I said, you want them to cycle faster in QT (where the salinity causes their demise), so that wasn't so silly a premise. Just combined with an environment where they'll thrive is where it causes a problem.
Sadly, we lost 2 fish to ich during our change over as well. The rest of the fish weren't bothered at all.
Gradually is good on the temperature drop. You don't want to do anything quickly for the sake of both your fish and your corals.
As I said, you want them to cycle faster in QT (where the salinity causes their demise), so that wasn't so silly a premise. Just combined with an environment where they'll thrive is where it causes a problem.
Sadly, we lost 2 fish to ich during our change over as well. The rest of the fish weren't bothered at all.
Gradually is good on the temperature drop. You don't want to do anything quickly for the sake of both your fish and your corals.
Thanks again, Phyl. I'm trying to keep my head up, but I'm literally glued to the tank most of the time, wanting to raise a magic wand.
Yes, I'm doing the temp change very slowly. By this evening the temperature should be at about 77. I don't think I can get it any lower than that, especially because I don't have a chiller.
Strangely enough a few of the fish are not affected at all, among them my firefish, Banggai Cardinal, Midas Blenny, 1 flasher wrasse and 2 fairy wrasses. ??? I sure hope I'm not jynxing it by having said that out loud.
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Wendy
Yes, I'm doing the temp change very slowly. By this evening the temperature should be at about 77. I don't think I can get it any lower than that, especially because I don't have a chiller.
Strangely enough a few of the fish are not affected at all, among them my firefish, Banggai Cardinal, Midas Blenny, 1 flasher wrasse and 2 fairy wrasses. ??? I sure hope I'm not jynxing it by having said that out loud.
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Wendy
There are many fish that are resistant (just like there are many fish that are highly susceptible), so that doesn't surprise me. Any time we had an ich showing in our main (never turned into an outbreak), it was always limited to our tangs.
Where is your temp now?
Where is your temp now?
It's at 79. It was 81 when I first posted about it.
kinda late on this thread but everything looks great! What kind of filter are those sock filters.. i know where there are 25, 10 and 5 micron bags that could make some decent filter bags.. also i read that ich could also carry over from your coral/LR and they sometimes should be QT in a changeover. how about a neon goby? they seem to be resistant to ich and help to rid the tank of it.. your tank is plenty big enough for a few of them to claim some territory and set up cleaning stations.. Sorry if this is a newbie suggestion
They are regular filter socks, kind of catch the "bigger" debris.
Since I have ich in the tank, I only have 2 options. Either try and deal with it, and hope for the best (but I have to make sure I have VERY stable water conditions to not further stress the fish), or pull each and every fish out, treat them, and leave my tank fallow for 8-11 weeks. I'm going with the first option.
I have cleaner shrimp and a neon goby (can't find another one....seems to be a hot item these days), but I wouldn't add another right now anyway because that would guarantee him to get ich as well. Neither of those "kill" the ich, they only pick on the fish and remove the cysts (if the fish allows them to). My Hippo Tang has been visiting my neon goby all day, and I even watched the goby go through his gills.
I must say that my Hippo looks much, much better than yesterday. He's been out and about all day, whereas for the past 2 days he was mostly in hiding and only came out to eat.
But - it's much to early to predict any outcome.
Since I have ich in the tank, I only have 2 options. Either try and deal with it, and hope for the best (but I have to make sure I have VERY stable water conditions to not further stress the fish), or pull each and every fish out, treat them, and leave my tank fallow for 8-11 weeks. I'm going with the first option.
I have cleaner shrimp and a neon goby (can't find another one....seems to be a hot item these days), but I wouldn't add another right now anyway because that would guarantee him to get ich as well. Neither of those "kill" the ich, they only pick on the fish and remove the cysts (if the fish allows them to). My Hippo Tang has been visiting my neon goby all day, and I even watched the goby go through his gills.
I must say that my Hippo looks much, much better than yesterday. He's been out and about all day, whereas for the past 2 days he was mostly in hiding and only came out to eat.
But - it's much to early to predict any outcome.
JerseyWendy said:They are regular filter socks, kind of catch the "bigger" debris.
Since I have ich in the tank, I only have 2 options. Either try and deal with it, and hope for the best (but I have to make sure I have VERY stable water conditions to not further stress the fish), or pull each and every fish out, treat them, and leave my tank fallow for 8-11 weeks. I'm going with the first option.
I have cleaner shrimp and a neon goby (can't find another one....seems to be a hot item these days), but I wouldn't add another right now anyway because that would guarantee him to get ich as well. Neither of those "kill" the ich, they only pick on the fish and remove the cysts (if the fish allows them to). My Hippo Tang has been visiting my neon goby all day, and I even watched the goby go through his gills.
I must say that my Hippo looks much, much better than yesterday. He's been out and about all day, whereas for the past 2 days he was mostly in hiding and only came out to eat.
But - it's much to early to predict any outcome.
Wendy
Steve has cleaner shrimp. i picked some up from him for my clowns
ugh - sorry to hear about this.
For the free-swimming critters - a uv setup might knock out some of them - but i'm not sure i'd want to drop money on an in-line uv set up just for this issue.
For the ones that sink to the bottom - i'd siphon as much as i could. Unfortunately you're not going to get them all but it's something to consider.
For the ones attached to the fish - if catchable you could dip them in a hyposalinity bath (or even with copper) to get those on the skin to come off (note that it can exacerbate the situation and they may bore in further).
Finally - the worst case scenario would be to trap and pull out every fish - move them to QT and allow the display to run fallow.
I agree with phyl that certain additives may help improve the immune system of the fish so that they self-fight the disease.
good luck!
For the free-swimming critters - a uv setup might knock out some of them - but i'm not sure i'd want to drop money on an in-line uv set up just for this issue.
For the ones that sink to the bottom - i'd siphon as much as i could. Unfortunately you're not going to get them all but it's something to consider.
For the ones attached to the fish - if catchable you could dip them in a hyposalinity bath (or even with copper) to get those on the skin to come off (note that it can exacerbate the situation and they may bore in further).
Finally - the worst case scenario would be to trap and pull out every fish - move them to QT and allow the display to run fallow.
I agree with phyl that certain additives may help improve the immune system of the fish so that they self-fight the disease.
good luck!
I was actually just reading and reading and researching about the UV. I'd love to borrow it, Phyl, thank you so much for offering. Does it come with a pump or do I need to get one?
My first set of lights just came on a little while ago, and from what I can see, everyone is accounted for. Temp is now at 78. In 12 hours I'll lower it to 77.
Jonathan, if you've read my previous posts you can see that I am very well aware of my options/choices on how to deal with the ich, but thanks for the input.
My first set of lights just came on a little while ago, and from what I can see, everyone is accounted for. Temp is now at 78. In 12 hours I'll lower it to 77.
Jonathan, if you've read my previous posts you can see that I am very well aware of my options/choices on how to deal with the ich, but thanks for the input.
Awesome, thanks again, Phyl. So much!
All my lights are now on, and I've fed my fish for the first time today. I know one thing, whoever survives this ich will have to go on a diet when it's all over. Since I'm feeding frequently, they all look rather chubby. :-[
As much as I hate posting pictures of sick animals, here are a few I took of my Hippo and his new best friend:
Here's a partial list of threads I've been reading:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1424845&perpage=25&pagenumber=3
All my lights are now on, and I've fed my fish for the first time today. I know one thing, whoever survives this ich will have to go on a diet when it's all over. Since I'm feeding frequently, they all look rather chubby. :-[
As much as I hate posting pictures of sick animals, here are a few I took of my Hippo and his new best friend:
Here's a partial list of threads I've been reading:
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1424845&perpage=25&pagenumber=3
I was reading with you about ich. I did read that you don't have to worry about cleaner shrimp getting ich so maybe adding another would be an option. Your tank should be big enough to handle two no? Thanks for the links. I hope everything gets better. I feel bad about your problem. :'(
JR, I have 2 cleaner shrimp. But I only ever see one of them. The other is still rather small, but Alex swears he saw him the other morning, when he was peaking at the tank with a little red light. :
Wendy
I so feel your pain.
I went through a nasty ick out break in my 120 soon after transfering everyhting. Because I was away when it started, I lost two fish. But, I managed through with the rest by feeding garlic & zoe soaked foods twice a day and running UV 24/7 at a slow enough rate to kill. That is important, what ever UV lamp you are able to borrow, look up the flow rates as they vary for the intended purpose. The slow the flow the higher the kill rate. I also have a very active cleaner in a fire shrimp whose always willing to dig in and pick at a willing fish.
Good luck!
I so feel your pain.
I went through a nasty ick out break in my 120 soon after transfering everyhting. Because I was away when it started, I lost two fish
. But, I managed through with the rest by feeding garlic & zoe soaked foods twice a day and running UV 24/7 at a slow enough rate to kill. That is important, what ever UV lamp you are able to borrow, look up the flow rates as they vary for the intended purpose. The slow the flow the higher the kill rate. I also have a very active cleaner in a fire shrimp whose always willing to dig in and pick at a willing fish.Good luck!