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Marks...Back to the Future..Reef Aquarium

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Thanks guys!!! I saw the kreg jig at lowes but cant decide which one to buy.....do I get the basic kit or the grand daddy of them all...the deluxe kit with different clamps and fancy gadgets!!!!!

Since I didn't think I'd use it often, I bought this jig and moved it around. I had a clamp laying around too. I ended up striping the bit that drives the special screws building the sump stand, but was able to buy a couple more for 3-4 dollars on Amazon. I got everything on Amazon including a box of the long screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocke...=UTF8&qid=1386870260&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+jig

Extra drives:

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-DDS-3-In...=UTF8&qid=1386870408&sr=8-7&keywords=kreg+jig
 
Since I didn't think I'd use it often, I bought this jig and moved it around. I had a clamp laying around too. I ended up striping the bit that drives the special screws building the sump stand, but was able to buy a couple more for 3-4 dollars on Amazon. I got everything on Amazon including a box of the long screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocke...=UTF8&qid=1386870260&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+jig

can you use any screw you want with it or do you need to use there screws?
 

redfishbluefish

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I’ve got the same Kreg as Mark off Amazon and picked up the clamp off Ebay HERE.



When you order the kit from amazon, throw in an order for screws as well. Note that there are two different screws….one for soft woods and one for hard woods.


You can do everything with this basic jig….don’t need the big fancy kit.
 
I read some reviews of the kreg and saw that some guys did use different screws with no issues. I guess you just need to be careful with what size the screws you use. I will take a trip to Lowes and see what I kind find out. But thank you and Paul for the links.
 

Hockeynut

NJRC Member
Thanks judeo,
In an emergency I have used other screws but they never hold as well as the ones designed for there system, the screws they sell have a cut in the tip which moves the first shavings that the tip cuts up the shaft so that you don't split the woodyou are screwing into. As Paul said when you place the order for the jig buy there screws just make sure you buy the right length for the thickness you are joining and corse for soft wood like pine and fine for wood like oak or Maple, good luck
 
Thanks judeo,
In an emergency I have used other screws but they never hold as well as the ones designed for there system, the screws they sell have a cut in the tip which moves the first shavings that the tip cuts up the shaft so that you don't split the woodyou are screwing into. As Paul said when you place the order for the jig buy there screws just make sure you buy the right length for the thickness you are joining and corse for soft wood like pine and fine for wood like oak or Maple, good luck

Thanks for jumping in here Rob! You feel their screws are strong enough for our applications? Especially when building a stand for an 8ft 360g tank?


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Still working on the RO/DI setup. Have a booster pump (Aquatec 8800) on the way. I think I've spent more money trying to make water than on my 180 gallon tank...:)

I will need to pump my RO water, after it loses its Co2 by sitting and bubbling back to the booster pump through the DI. Since it will use 1/4 inch tubing , what type pump is generally used for this narrow tubing?

Thanks...
 

kschweer

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You should be able to just pump the water straight throw the DI with a small pump. You do not need the pressure from the booster pump to go through just the DI. The booster pumps pressure is needed to push the water through the membrane.
 
You should be able to just pump the water straight throw the DI with a small pump. You do not need the pressure from the booster pump to go through just the DI. The booster pumps pressure is needed to push the water through the membrane.

Good to know...thanks!
 

Tommyboynj

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Your moving right along. Iv got to get ine of the pocket hole jigs. I've got some winter furniture projects on the honeydo list.

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Does anyone know, if the waste line on a RO/DI system can push the waste water up about 2 feet. And is is ok to tap into a 4 inch sewer line?

If so that would be one headache out of the way.


Thanks!
 

kschweer

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You should have no problem pushing waste up 2 ft I have seen it go up further than that. As far as tapping into a sewage line I believe you would want to have a trap installed rather than just tap into the pipe. Do you have a sink or washer and dryer in the basement?
 
You should have no problem pushing waste up 2 ft I have seen it go up further than that. As far as tapping into a sewage line I believe you would want to have a trap installed rather than just tap into the pipe. Do you have a sink or washer and dryer in the basement?

Thats the problem, no sink, washer etc...
 

kschweer

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How far would the nearest sink be? I have seen people run the waste line to the nearest sink on the first floor, drill a small hole under the sink and hook up to the sink drain before the trap with a saddle valve like the one that comes with the BRS units.
 
You should have no problem pushing waste up 2 ft I have seen it go up further than that. As far as tapping into a sewage line I believe you would want to have a trap installed rather than just tap into the pipe. Do you have a sink or washer and dryer in the basement?

I would assume a long horizontal run wouldn't be much of an issue either then? I meant to route my waste line outside a while ago, but I'm a horrible procrastinator, so now that my tank is mostly ready, I'm cramming everything in now. It'd be nicer to be able to keep the RO/DI on the finished half of the basement, which is on the opposite side of the house from where I'm planning on going through the exterior wall, but that would require going about 10 feet horizontally and maybe 12-18" vertically.
 
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