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Ricwilli's 215 build
- Thread starter ricwilli
- Start date
Re: Ricwilli's 210 build
Well, I picked out the rocks that I wanted to use in my display. They are currently in water being cured.
The skimmer that will be used to cure the rocks.
Royal-Exclusive Vertex Alpha 250
This is 5min after I turned it on.
I tested the water and Nitrates are 50 and Phosphate is 2.13. I will be using Brightwell products in my system to reach and keep ULN water.
The two products that I will start using in the tub full of rocks are, Micro Bacter 7 (MB7) and Reef Bio Fuel (RBF). You can read about these products here http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=bw-liquid. I will dose 3-4 weeks. By than my Nitrate and Phosphate should be zero.
Below was copied from premiumaquatics.com
Micro Bacter 7 Benefits:
-Rapid reduction of organic carbon, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate.
-Digestion of uneaten/undigested food, excreta, detritus, and other latent organix material, resulting in cleaner and healthier -aquarium substrate.
-Reduction of organic compounds into nutrients that encourage the growth of photosynthetic organisms.
-Greatly-reduced hydrogen sulfide production.
-Increase in dissolved oxygen concentration.
-Limits availability of pre-existing phosphate to undesirable forms of algae and cyanobacteria.
-Increased water clarity.
Reef Bio Fuel Benefits:
- Helps maintain a balanced nutrient-limited marine
aquarium by enabling the hobbyist to enhance the
rate of microbial growth and reproduction, increasing
the rate of phosphate-reduction and denitrification;
this is of particular benefit in heavily-stocked, well-fed
reef aquaria.
- Replaces “vodka method” of microbial activity-
enhancement with a completely safe and
biologically-sound, non-flammable alternative to using
vodka or ethanol.
- Indirectly benefits corals and other suspension-
feeding invertebrates by encouraging reproduction
of bacterioplankton (an important food source for
suspension-feeding invertebrates).
- Encourages polyp-expansion in all corals.
- May be used to help expedite biological filtration in
new set-ups.
I will not be using the Neo Zeo Zeolite Media to cure the rocks, but I will be using them when my system is up and running. I'm also debating on adding carbon. Maybe I will in three weeks. I have approximately 65 gallons of water in the tub. So I will adjust the dosage accordingly. Hopefully I can start gluing the plumbing tomorrow. I also found a great deal on a Reeflo Hammerhead pump for my return.
Well, I picked out the rocks that I wanted to use in my display. They are currently in water being cured.
The skimmer that will be used to cure the rocks.
Royal-Exclusive Vertex Alpha 250
This is 5min after I turned it on.
I tested the water and Nitrates are 50 and Phosphate is 2.13. I will be using Brightwell products in my system to reach and keep ULN water.
The two products that I will start using in the tub full of rocks are, Micro Bacter 7 (MB7) and Reef Bio Fuel (RBF). You can read about these products here http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=bw-liquid. I will dose 3-4 weeks. By than my Nitrate and Phosphate should be zero.
Below was copied from premiumaquatics.com
Micro Bacter 7 Benefits:
-Rapid reduction of organic carbon, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate.
-Digestion of uneaten/undigested food, excreta, detritus, and other latent organix material, resulting in cleaner and healthier -aquarium substrate.
-Reduction of organic compounds into nutrients that encourage the growth of photosynthetic organisms.
-Greatly-reduced hydrogen sulfide production.
-Increase in dissolved oxygen concentration.
-Limits availability of pre-existing phosphate to undesirable forms of algae and cyanobacteria.
-Increased water clarity.
Reef Bio Fuel Benefits:
- Helps maintain a balanced nutrient-limited marine
aquarium by enabling the hobbyist to enhance the
rate of microbial growth and reproduction, increasing
the rate of phosphate-reduction and denitrification;
this is of particular benefit in heavily-stocked, well-fed
reef aquaria.
- Replaces “vodka method” of microbial activity-
enhancement with a completely safe and
biologically-sound, non-flammable alternative to using
vodka or ethanol.
- Indirectly benefits corals and other suspension-
feeding invertebrates by encouraging reproduction
of bacterioplankton (an important food source for
suspension-feeding invertebrates).
- Encourages polyp-expansion in all corals.
- May be used to help expedite biological filtration in
new set-ups.
I will not be using the Neo Zeo Zeolite Media to cure the rocks, but I will be using them when my system is up and running. I'm also debating on adding carbon. Maybe I will in three weeks. I have approximately 65 gallons of water in the tub. So I will adjust the dosage accordingly. Hopefully I can start gluing the plumbing tomorrow. I also found a great deal on a Reeflo Hammerhead pump for my return.
Re: Ricwilli's 210 build
WOW! Plumbing stinks. Man does it take a long time to glue it all up. I'm not even half way done. I was hoping to have it done by the end of the week but I've been working 12 hour days for the past two weeks. No time whats so ever.
Well, I did receive something yesterday, that I was hoping to get/find before I put water in the tank. I found a good deal on a Kati/Ani model #2. NO MORE WASTE WATER FOR ME!.
Here is a pic of it
I was over at Davids (Malulu) house and he was showing me how to recharge his Kati/Ani. He has Model #5. It looks intimidating but I'm sure I'll do fine with it. Here is a description that I got on the web.
The KATI ANI units are Ion Exchangers which means they adjust water that flows through the resins by exchanging Ions. The resins give up some Ions and take in other Ions. This exchange can dramatically affect the chemical composition of the water.
The KATI and ANI are two separate Ion Exchangers that can be used singly or together depending on the desired result. This manual will explain the operating process and regeneration process for filtering tap or well water prior to adding to the aquarium. This will utilize both the KATI and ANI units in sequence and will totally de-mineralize the water. The end result is a very pure water with virtually no hardness or TDS (total dissolved solids) remaining in the water. KATI ANI units produce very consistent results and they are generally acknowledged to create 99% pure water. Reverse Osmosis at best is generally rated at 98% with variability of the results. Other advantages over RO include no waste of water (which is a significant cost savings), faster processing time (380 gallons/day), does not need high water pressure to operate, and no costly replacement of pre-filters, carbon block filters, and membranes.
Other functions the KATI and/or ANI units can perform are dependent on how the resins are regenerated. The regeneration process defines what Ions the units will remove from the processed water. The KATI unit alone can be used to soften water or to partially de-mineralize water. The ANI unit alone can be used to keep stable pH in a saltwater aquarium. It can also be used on a temporary basis to polish salt water (reducing Nitrate). Beside totally purifying tap/well water before using in an aquarium, the combined KATI and ANI system can be used to temporarily to reduce the total mineral content (including Nitrate) in a saltwater system, thereby reducing the need for water changes. In freshwater aquariums, the KATI ANI filtration can be used more often and could totally eliminate the need for water changes. The regeneration processes for these alternative uses are more complex and the operation of filtering an existing aquarium requires close monitoring.
The KATI (red) resin is the only resin that changes color as it depletes which indicates the remaining life for both sets (KATI and ANI) of resins. Regeneration is not overly complicated nor does it require expensive equipment or chemicals. However, the chemicals used are either very strong acid or very strong base chemicals, which can cause very serious injuries if proper processes are not followed. The KATI ANI resins are very high quality and have lasted for over 20 years in some systems.
The various models of KATI ANI run from model 1 through model 10. The model number stands for the number of liters the units hold. So, the model 10 holds ten liters versus the model 1 with one liter. This means that the model 10 will process ten times the water (with the same hardness) although at the same throughput speed. Likewise, the regeneration process will use ten times more regeneration chemicals in a model 10, but the regeneration time is the same.
This system is not for everyone if you have CO2 issues it will also be a problem with the KATI ANI system. Regeneration of resin requires the use Muriatic Acid (31% Hrdrochloric Acid) and Lye (Sodium Hydroxide).
WOW! Plumbing stinks. Man does it take a long time to glue it all up. I'm not even half way done. I was hoping to have it done by the end of the week but I've been working 12 hour days for the past two weeks. No time whats so ever.
Well, I did receive something yesterday, that I was hoping to get/find before I put water in the tank. I found a good deal on a Kati/Ani model #2. NO MORE WASTE WATER FOR ME!.
Here is a pic of it
I was over at Davids (Malulu) house and he was showing me how to recharge his Kati/Ani. He has Model #5. It looks intimidating but I'm sure I'll do fine with it. Here is a description that I got on the web.
The KATI ANI units are Ion Exchangers which means they adjust water that flows through the resins by exchanging Ions. The resins give up some Ions and take in other Ions. This exchange can dramatically affect the chemical composition of the water.
The KATI and ANI are two separate Ion Exchangers that can be used singly or together depending on the desired result. This manual will explain the operating process and regeneration process for filtering tap or well water prior to adding to the aquarium. This will utilize both the KATI and ANI units in sequence and will totally de-mineralize the water. The end result is a very pure water with virtually no hardness or TDS (total dissolved solids) remaining in the water. KATI ANI units produce very consistent results and they are generally acknowledged to create 99% pure water. Reverse Osmosis at best is generally rated at 98% with variability of the results. Other advantages over RO include no waste of water (which is a significant cost savings), faster processing time (380 gallons/day), does not need high water pressure to operate, and no costly replacement of pre-filters, carbon block filters, and membranes.
Other functions the KATI and/or ANI units can perform are dependent on how the resins are regenerated. The regeneration process defines what Ions the units will remove from the processed water. The KATI unit alone can be used to soften water or to partially de-mineralize water. The ANI unit alone can be used to keep stable pH in a saltwater aquarium. It can also be used on a temporary basis to polish salt water (reducing Nitrate). Beside totally purifying tap/well water before using in an aquarium, the combined KATI and ANI system can be used to temporarily to reduce the total mineral content (including Nitrate) in a saltwater system, thereby reducing the need for water changes. In freshwater aquariums, the KATI ANI filtration can be used more often and could totally eliminate the need for water changes. The regeneration processes for these alternative uses are more complex and the operation of filtering an existing aquarium requires close monitoring.
The KATI (red) resin is the only resin that changes color as it depletes which indicates the remaining life for both sets (KATI and ANI) of resins. Regeneration is not overly complicated nor does it require expensive equipment or chemicals. However, the chemicals used are either very strong acid or very strong base chemicals, which can cause very serious injuries if proper processes are not followed. The KATI ANI resins are very high quality and have lasted for over 20 years in some systems.
The various models of KATI ANI run from model 1 through model 10. The model number stands for the number of liters the units hold. So, the model 10 holds ten liters versus the model 1 with one liter. This means that the model 10 will process ten times the water (with the same hardness) although at the same throughput speed. Likewise, the regeneration process will use ten times more regeneration chemicals in a model 10, but the regeneration time is the same.
This system is not for everyone if you have CO2 issues it will also be a problem with the KATI ANI system. Regeneration of resin requires the use Muriatic Acid (31% Hrdrochloric Acid) and Lye (Sodium Hydroxide).
Re: Ricwilli's 210 build
I know, I know.... this build is going to slow. But since I've been working 12 hours days and 6 days a week, I have no time for anything. So here is a little update.
The sump is finally complete and the piping all glued.
Here is the sump
The intake and return from pump. I'm not to happy with that hard 90 elbow on the return. I might change it.
The return pump - Reeflo Hammerhead Pump
Another sump pic
I also moved my 90 gallon tank to the other side of the room so that I can get stuff done upstairs where the 215 will sit. It wasn't a pretty sight. Thank god my wife wasn't there to see the mess behind the tank.
Here is the 90 on the other side of the room.
I found my Bartlett Anthias behind the tank. I always wondered what ever happened to it.
Here is where I put some of the corals. There is another bin full of corals some where.
This is the spot where the 215 will go. As you can see, the return for the furnace is at the bottom of the wall. I will be moving it to the top.
Here is the stand in its place. If you notice, I took advantage of the opportunity and installed crown molding. I would have had a tough time putting it up if the 215 was set up. I was going to finish it, but my wife suggested I finish putting up the tank first, than finish the crown molding around the room. She is tired of seeing her house full of bins and fish tanks.
I also took advantage of the furnace return and routed the pipes from the basement up through it.
That's it for now. I visited OGII the other day and purchased some bulkheads for the tank. I should be doing a LEAK TEST by the end of the week. I will let the setup run with fresh water for about a week. Maybe longer. During that time I will regenerate my Kati Ani, make water and wash a few buckets of used sand.
I know, I know.... this build is going to slow. But since I've been working 12 hours days and 6 days a week, I have no time for anything. So here is a little update.
The sump is finally complete and the piping all glued.
Here is the sump
The intake and return from pump. I'm not to happy with that hard 90 elbow on the return. I might change it.
The return pump - Reeflo Hammerhead Pump
Another sump pic
I also moved my 90 gallon tank to the other side of the room so that I can get stuff done upstairs where the 215 will sit. It wasn't a pretty sight. Thank god my wife wasn't there to see the mess behind the tank.
Here is the 90 on the other side of the room.
I found my Bartlett Anthias behind the tank. I always wondered what ever happened to it.
Here is where I put some of the corals. There is another bin full of corals some where.
This is the spot where the 215 will go. As you can see, the return for the furnace is at the bottom of the wall. I will be moving it to the top.
Here is the stand in its place. If you notice, I took advantage of the opportunity and installed crown molding. I would have had a tough time putting it up if the 215 was set up. I was going to finish it, but my wife suggested I finish putting up the tank first, than finish the crown molding around the room. She is tired of seeing her house full of bins and fish tanks.
I also took advantage of the furnace return and routed the pipes from the basement up through it.
That's it for now. I visited OGII the other day and purchased some bulkheads for the tank. I should be doing a LEAK TEST by the end of the week. I will let the setup run with fresh water for about a week. Maybe longer. During that time I will regenerate my Kati Ani, make water and wash a few buckets of used sand.
Re: Ricwilli's 210 build
I've been using MicroBacter7 on my main tank for some time now. Works well at dropping Phosphate and Nitrate. Nitrate is at 0 (Salifert) and Phosphate was a 0.02 (Hanna) but has increased slightly to 0.06. Improves water quality as well. I think you'll like it. I'm not using Vodka or Reef Bio Fuel yet.
ricwilli said:
I've been using MicroBacter7 on my main tank for some time now. Works well at dropping Phosphate and Nitrate. Nitrate is at 0 (Salifert) and Phosphate was a 0.02 (Hanna) but has increased slightly to 0.06. Improves water quality as well. I think you'll like it. I'm not using Vodka or Reef Bio Fuel yet.
NEWSALT said:
Mike you should use the Reef Bio Fuel as well. That will clear your water even better. When people came over my house they always commented on the clarity of the water. Some have even asked if the tank had low iron glass and it does not. I'm counting on this product to help me with my T5's par to reach the bottom of the tank.
Here is the tank in its place. I would like to THANK my father in-law, my wife, and mother for helping me bring the tank in the house. My father in-law and I usually move
the tank around, but he wasn't feeling to good that day, so the ladies help him out. I have some strong women living in the house. Sorry, no pics of this as all hands were on deck.
The plumbing under the tank.
Today was filling/testing day. My wife asked if i was going to use that water and I turned around and walked away.
Filling
Filled
Sump filling
Sump filled
AND WHAT I FOUND
The leak was not that bad. It was just dripping very little. Right now, the manifold is empty and I put more glue on the joint. I'm hoping that this will fix the problem. So what do you think. Will the extra glue suffice or will I have to take down the manifold and replace that section?
Once I finish with the leak, I will put my new Vortech in the tank just for the heck of it. Now I have to clean some sand and make water.
the tank around, but he wasn't feeling to good that day, so the ladies help him out. I have some strong women living in the house. Sorry, no pics of this as all hands were on deck.
The plumbing under the tank.
Today was filling/testing day. My wife asked if i was going to use that water and I turned around and walked away.
Filling
Filled
Sump filling
Sump filled
AND WHAT I FOUND
The leak was not that bad. It was just dripping very little. Right now, the manifold is empty and I put more glue on the joint. I'm hoping that this will fix the problem. So what do you think. Will the extra glue suffice or will I have to take down the manifold and replace that section?
Once I finish with the leak, I will put my new Vortech in the tank just for the heck of it. Now I have to clean some sand and make water.
how about some pvc tape and then glue? When I first started the plumping of my 120 - one of the return lines has a very slow leak right above my sink (luckily). I used some glue and it still had a slight leak - but now it's just dried salt. But I was thinking the pvc tape might also help.
Hawkeye said:
I don't think the tape is going to do it. I stopped the pump last night, let the manifold drain, blew some forced air were the leak is and put more glue. I will test it today as soon as I get of work today.
rgarofalo said:
Good catch. I was having this issue when I had a 20 gallon with four bulb fixture right underneath the thermostat (Granted the Aquactinics Constellation has 14 bulbs). The difference between the upstairs and downstairs temp was only two degrees. If I see a 5+ degree difference in temp, I will move it. I'm also thinking of moving the furnace return to the other side as well.
Well, I'm happy to say that there are no leaks as of yet. If there was still a leak, adesimone1 (Anthony) suggested that I go to home depot and buy some fiberglass tape for water leaks. He says that it works on all kinds of pipeing and that it is good for pressure pipes too. This will be my fix if it starts to leak again in the samem place. Hey Phil, this will probably work for you.
Thanks Anthony
Thanks Anthony
Looks real good is that you dining room or just a centrally located room in the house.
Been meaning to make a post here for weeks but it kept slipping my mind. The setup is looking great Richie and I'm glad the minor leak was easily fixed. Sorry about the Bartlett Anthias though, I'm sure it was sad to find him like that.
Kudos on all the plumbing work. I'm sure all that hard work will pay off in the end. Easy water changes and the new Kati Ani setup will save you time and money in the long run.
Anyway, can't wait to see some pics after you get it all stocked! It's been about a month since you started curing your LR. How's the progress going on that? Are you waiting for the LR to cure in the tub before setting the new tank up, or are you going to let it finish curing in the new tank?
Kudos on all the plumbing work. I'm sure all that hard work will pay off in the end. Easy water changes and the new Kati Ani setup will save you time and money in the long run.
Anyway, can't wait to see some pics after you get it all stocked! It's been about a month since you started curing your LR. How's the progress going on that? Are you waiting for the LR to cure in the tub before setting the new tank up, or are you going to let it finish curing in the new tank?
Things haven't been doing so good. I have no time to do anything. 80% of my sps has died. I stoped dosing the tub full of rocks. Had problem with the Kati Ani (I generated incorrectly). The TDS in the water is over 100. Phosphate is 2.69. I haven't checked nitrates yet. AAAAAHHHHHH I feel like throwing in the towel. Since my tank water is all out of wack, I will cure the rocks in the tank. I will start dosing Brightwells products tomorrow.
This is the plan. Copied from Brightwells pdf.
Weeks 1 and 2: Place 200 g each week of NēoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in
the entire aquarium system into an appropriate media reactor; adjust the rate of water
flow through the reactor to ~25 gph (94.6 lph). Add 2.5 ml MicrōBacter7 per 100 USgallons
daily.
Weeks 3 and 4: Add 200 g each week of NēoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in
the entire aquarium system into the media reactor; increase water flow through the
reactor to ~50 gph (189.3 lph). Add 1 ml MicrōBacter7 and Reef BioFuel per 100 USgallons
daily.
Week 5: Add 200 g of NēoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in the entire aquarium
system into the media reactor; increase water flow through the reactor to ~100 gph
(378.5 lph). Add 1 ml MicrōBacter7 and Reef BioFuel per 100 US-gallons daily.
This is the plan. Copied from Brightwells pdf.
Weeks 1 and 2: Place 200 g each week of NēoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in
the entire aquarium system into an appropriate media reactor; adjust the rate of water
flow through the reactor to ~25 gph (94.6 lph). Add 2.5 ml MicrōBacter7 per 100 USgallons
daily.
Weeks 3 and 4: Add 200 g each week of NēoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in
the entire aquarium system into the media reactor; increase water flow through the
reactor to ~50 gph (189.3 lph). Add 1 ml MicrōBacter7 and Reef BioFuel per 100 USgallons
daily.
Week 5: Add 200 g of NēoZeo for each 100 US-gallons (378.5 L) in the entire aquarium
system into the media reactor; increase water flow through the reactor to ~100 gph
(378.5 lph). Add 1 ml MicrōBacter7 and Reef BioFuel per 100 US-gallons daily.
Aw man. Sorry to hear you are having some problems Richie.
How did you lose your sps? Was it because you moved the tank?
Do you still have a ro/di ? If so, maybe you could just do a 100% water change in bthe rock tub using ro/di and then start dosing again? I'd hate to see you start out in the DT and then have the same probs with the water in there.
Well hope things work out. Hang in there and keep us updated.
How did you lose your sps? Was it because you moved the tank?
Do you still have a ro/di ? If so, maybe you could just do a 100% water change in bthe rock tub using ro/di and then start dosing again? I'd hate to see you start out in the DT and then have the same probs with the water in there.
Well hope things work out. Hang in there and keep us updated.